Alchemilla's Rosebay Willowherb Cream is a potent soothing, organic facial moisturizer that well deserves its top seller position in our natural skin care line.

Made with Rosebay Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract that is grown on our own organic farm, this potent herbal topical remedy, has a soothing, calming effect on irritated skin, making it a wonderful sensitive skin facial moisturizer and excellent for minor bites and irritations.  

Rosebay Willowherb, or Epilobium angustifolium, extract not only has powerful anti-irritant properties, scientific studies are showing that topical anti-irritants can stimulate the synthesis of new collagen and elastin (proteins which give skin its elasticity), giving it natural anti-aging properties too!   What's more, studies on Epilobium angustifolium are showing promising anti-acne actions.

Although there is relatively little information available about Epilobium angustifolium when compared to more traditional plant medicines such as Calendula, and while this is possibly due to its commonly known status as a 'weed'!, the incredibly effective anti-irritant properties of this plant make it sometimes known as "Nature's Alternative to Hydrocortisone".

Indeed, we at Alchemilla have had great success in our own personal use and that of friends, family, colleagues and customers.  One Alchemilla esthetician used the cream on her hormonal acne in the evening and reported that it had all but vanished by the next morning and some Alchemilla customers, including yours truly, keep this facial moisturizer as a constant in their beauty cabinet.

As this delightful plant grows, we view it's long, narrow leaves and bright purple flowers atop tall branches not as a weed, but as a powerful and perhaps under-valued natural healer.  And although many a gardener might be tempted to pull this plant out as soon as it rises up from the soil, we only find ourselves urging it on with much enthusiasm!

Find out more and/or buy Rosebay Willowherb Cream >

With beach weather still in full swing, we thought it would be a good time to talk about the powerful herbal ingredients found in Juniper Energizing Body Rub – a stimulating organic blend of pure essential oils and perfectly emollient carrier oils that energize passive, sluggish skin to improve its texture and reduce the appearance of cellulite. 

Outlined below are the four organic herbal extracts found in Alchemilla's body rub, that are among the most powerful natural anti-cellulite and lymphatic drainage herbal ingredients available:

Juniper (Juniperus communis)

Juniper is well known for its strong diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties.

In fact, Juniper is such a powerful stimulant that it has been used to trigger menstruation.  17th Century herbalist, Nicholas Culpeper, recommended taking the berries to help speed childbirth and Native Americans used it as a contraceptive.  Obviously pregnant women are warned to avoid use of this herb.

Due to its warming effect on the skin, Juniper has a long history of use to ease the pain of arthritis, gout and rheumatic problems.

Its highly purifying effects promote circulation, release of trapped fluid and accumulated waste from underlying skin tissue.

Cypress (Cupressus sempivirens)

With its various tannins, Cypress is another toning and highly astringent herb that was once used by Ancient Greeks to treat dysentery and respiratory illnesses.

Cypress is a powerful vasoconstrictor and diuretic and when massaged into the skin, it tightens blood vessels.  It is often included in topical medicinals for the treatment of varicose veins and hemorrhoids.

Cypress is another herb that recommended to be avoided by pregnant women. 

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

Fennel is a powerful diuretic and another herb to be avoided in pregnancy.  The seeds of this herb contain volatile oils and high concentrations of natural chemicals such as anethole, fenchone, bergaptene, sterols and flavonoids.

The primary use of fennel is for relief of bloating and colic, as a diuretic and an anti-inflammatory.  Its strong diuretic, astringent and purifying properties make Fennel essential oil excellent for stimulating circulation, reducing water retention, firming skin and reducing toxic accumulations from the skin.

Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi)

Grapefruit is a highly stimulating, toning, diuretic herb.   The essential oil of Grapefruit peel can help combat fatigue and muscle stiffness while it stimulates the lymphatic system.  It is a favorable ingredient for depurative remedies to help the body disperse of toxic accumulations, clear congestion and firm skin tissue.

 

Juniper Energizing Body Rub is a synergistic blend of all of the above herbs, along with Calendula (antiseptic), Chamomile (anti-inflammatory), Rosebay Willowherb (anti-irritant), Jojoba (moisturizing), Rosehip (healing), Lavender (soothing, relaxing), Sea Buckthorn Berry (vitamin-rich antioxidant) and Vitamin E (antioxidant).  Each ingredient in this potent massage oil is chosen specifically for its healing and nourishing properties on the skin.

As above, the active ingredients in this product are powerful stimulants and, as such, should be avoided by pregnant women.

 

For more information, or to purchase, check out Juniper Energizing Body Rub at MyAlchemilla.com.

 

Most people can use the majority of skin care products without any problems, however there is still a small percentage of individuals who suffer from irritation and/or allergic dermatitis without knowing what it is that is causing their symptoms.

Skin irritation is normally characterized by some form of burning, itching, stinging and/or redness soon after product application.  For some highly sensitive individuals, the area may develop an allergic, or contact dermatitis.

Are Natural Skin Care Products Less Likely to Cause Irritation?

It is important to understand that because a skin care product is considered natural or organic, it is not necessary free of allergens by default.

The ability for any skin care product to cause an allergic reaction, natural, organic or not, is completely dependent upon what is in the product and who is using it on their skin.

What are the Main Allergens in Skin Care?

As any dermatologist will confirm, and many individuals with sensitive skin probably already know, the two major categories of allergens found in skin care products are fragrances and preservatives.

Fragrances

According to countless clinical studies, fragrances are the most frequent skin allergens.  As many as 3000 different fragrance molecules are available to perfumers and skin care manufacturers, and at least 100 of these are serious allergens*.  

Unfortunately for the consumer, the individual chemicals used to make up a fragrance are not legally required to be disclosed on a product label by the manufacturer, which  means any of the 3000 available could be used.  Obviously, this makes it extremely difficult for a sensitive-skin individual to know what they are putting on their skin if the ingredient label includes 'fragrance' as a component of the product.

To complicate matters further, unscented products may in fact contain fragrance chemicals that are not labeled as 'fragrance'.

The Most Frequent Allergen in Skin Care is an Essential Oil!

Surprisingly to many, the most frequent allergen found in cosmetics is not a synthetic fragrance, but a botanical known as Balsam of Peru (or Peru Balsam). 

Balsam of Peru is an essential oil made from the resin of the Central American Myroxylon pereirae (aka M. balsamum) tree. The pleasant vanilla-like aroma of Balsam of Peru comes mainly from ingredients known as cinnamein, cinnamic acid and vanillin. Its other ingredients, also known to be strong allergens, are: benzoic acid, benzyl acetate, cinnamic alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, eugenol, cinnamic aldehyde and methylcinnamate. 

Knowing that Balsam of Peru is such a high risk allergen, one might question why a company (especially a natural product manufacturer) would use it in their products. The reasons are simple: In addition to its highly pleasant aroma, Balsam of Peru is a strong antibacterial and antifungal, making it very attractive to manufacturers who wish to claim a 'no preservative' motto.

How Can I Know if Balsam of Peru is in My Product?

This is the dilemma.  Hopefully the product manufacturer will appropriately disclose this ingredient on their product packaging (it should look similar to this:   Myroxylon pereirae (Balsam of Peru) essential oil or, possibly, Myroxylon balsam (Peru Balsam) extract). 

Unfortunately, in most cases you will need to be a detective if you want to avoid this ingredient, particularly if the company chooses not to disclose their fragrance components.  If an ingredient label includes 'Fragrance' and also includes one of the above highlighted chemicals (eugenol etc.), you will need to contact the manufacturer directly and ask them directly if Balsam of Peru is in the product.  (Be prepared: It may be difficult to get a straight answer and most customer service operators will not be informed.)

The next most common allergen is a fragrance mix.  As stated, these can be a combination of any of 3000 different molecules, many of which are serious skin allergens.  Any skin care product label that includes "Fragrance" as an ingredient is allowed to contain any fragrance mix, including those with labels that state their fragrance comes from essential oils.

Independent laboratory testing has shown us that even if an ingredient list includes "Fragrance (from essential oil)" and the company markets "no synthetic fragrances", this has not always truthful labelling.  In addition, sometimes "fragrance (from essential oils)" can mean the fragrance is not necessarily from pure, synergistically active (and potentially safer) whole essential oils, but that it is from compounds (usually the most fragrant) which have been isolated and extracted out of an essential oil.

Preservatives

Preservatives are essential for maintaining a product's freshness, however most can be irritating if used in too high concentrations and some, regardless of concentration, are a major cause of irritation and contact dermatitis - the most prevalent being two formaldehyde releasers known as quaternium-15 and imidazolidinyl urea.

Unfortunately preservatives cannot be avoided if a product is to remain fresh and safe for a consumer, so for individuals with reactive skin, it can be a hit-and-miss situation until they figure out if a preservative is what is causing problems for their skin and duly avoid it.

Summary of the Most Frequent Allergens

According to the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and various dermatologic literature, some of the most frequent allergens in cosmetics (skin and hair care) are as follows (the figure in parenthesis notes the % of patients who had an irritation reaction):

1. Balsam of Peru (Myroxylon pereirae) (12.3%)


2. Fragrance Mix (11.7%)


3. Formaldehyde (9.3%)


4. Quarternium-15 (9.0%)


5. Imidazolidinyl urea (2.5%)


6. Lanolin alcohol (2.4%)


7. DMDM hydantoin (1.9%)


8. Methyl methacrylate (1.3%)


9. Parabens (1.0%)

How to Protect Skin from Irritation

If you're highly sensitive, it's not always simple, but there are some basic steps that can be taken to lessen the chance of an allergic reaction to cosmetics. 

First, check the ingredient label thoroughly and arm yourself with as much information as you can about ingredients that can be problematic.

Second, run a patch test.  This involves applying the product to the inner elbow, leaving in place for 24 hours and assessing whether there has been irritation or a reaction in that time.  For the extremely sensitive, following up this standard patch test by applying a small amount of the product to the lower cheek before the rest of the face, would also be advisable.  If no reaction occurs in either case, it is probably an okay product for your skin.

And third, for those who are having difficulty with many products but cannot pin-point what exactly is causing the problem, a dermatologist who specializes in skin allergies can perform a specialized skin allergy test to help figure it out.  The is fairly straight-forward and in a short time one can know exactly what they must avoid to protect their skin from irritation.

Remember, signs of irritation include burning, itching, stinging and/or redness.  If any of these symptoms occur, stop using the product immediately.

Sources:
American Journal Cl. Dermatology, 2003
Rook et al, 2004, Blackwell Publishing, "Rook's Textbook of Dermatology"
Marks et al, 2003, American Journal of Contact Dermatitis

For sensitive skin types, try Alchemilla's Rosebay Willowherb Cream or Calendula Cream.  Both are fragrance-free moisturizers containing a low percentage of preservatives that do not commonly cause irritation.

Many folks use aromatherapy quite regularly, and there are few massage therapists who can say they never incorporate some form of this delightful healing art into their treatment sessions.

However, the information in this post is directed mainly toward those who do not fully understand, or have yet to experience the true pleasure of this wonderful aromatic healing art - or those who think they have by using one of those floral room fresheners so frequently advertized. We have also included a small amount of essential oil safety information.

What is Aromatherapy?

Aromatherapy is considered the most potent form of herbal medicine.  It is an holistic complimentary health care modality - a healing art that uses highly concentrated natural plant extracts (essential oils), which are compounds that are obtained through either steam distillation or cold expression of flowers, leaves, seeds, berries, barks or citrus rinds.

Essential oils are highly aromatic and can consist of literally hundreds of individual components including hormones, pheromones, cell regenerating agents, antivirals and antibiotics.

Although their purpose in nature is not yet fully understood, essential oils are often likened to the 'blood' of the plant and form an integral part of its immune system.

The therapeutic effect an essential oil depends upon the chemical make-up of the plant and is known as aromatherapy. The therapeutic value of an oil obtained from a plant that has been sprayed with chemical pesticides and herbicides will be quite altered, and possibly destroyed, in comparison to a plant that has been grown using organic methods.

In an aromatherapy treatment, essential oils are added to a carrier (or base) oil and massaged into the skin, or they can be added to warm bath water, inhaled directly or through vaporization, or added to plant poultices. They may also be added to skin care to impart healing and balancing qualities to the treatment.

Aromatherapy can bring about many positive and sometimes profound physical, spiritual and emotional changes.

Important Note: A true aromatherapy experience is not achieved through the use of synthetic fragrances such as those found in almost all commercial room fresheners (whether fragrance is used alone or in combination with an essential oil) or synthetically fragranced cosmetics or perfumes.

How Does Aromatherapy Work?

Put very simply, the nasal cavity contains olfactory nerves that are sensitive to airborne molecules which get stuck on the mucous membrane. These olfactory nerves are directly connected to the limbic system (emotional center) of the brain.

The limbic system is the part of our brain that stores all of our sensory experiences such as memories and emotions. It is located within the hypothalamus, which controls the release of hormones from the pituitary gland and the autonomic (involuntary) nervous system.

In aromatherapy, when a scent is encountered, the limbic system determines the action the hypothalamus will take. Depending on the scent (the molecules encountered), the hypothalamus may instruct the pituitary gland to release hormones - for example 'feel-good' chemicals such as serotonin and endorphins - and trigger changes to body temperature, heart rate, the digestive system or stress levels.

Although it has yet to be scientifically validated, it is also believed that some essential oil molecules can also penetrate the skin, having a profound either an effect on either the skin itself, or on organs within the body.  For example, it is believed that Juniper essential oil can cause uterine contractions (which is why one would avoid this particular essential oil during pregnancy).

But regardless of the scientific basis about how and why aromatherapy works, who can deny that wonderfully relaxing and uplifting effect of true lavender or rose geranium?!

Essential Oil Safety

Essential oils are extremely concentrated and in most cases too strong to be applied undiluted to the skin. They should be handled and used with great care and their power should never be underestimated.

Never take essential oils internally unless instructed to do so by a health care practitioner. A carrier oil should be employed in aromatherapy as a means of diluting essential oils for massage and for skin or facial oil blends. Avoid contact with eyes and sensitive areas. Certain essential oils should be avoided in specific health conditions whilst others will be wonderfully appropriate - be sure to research contraindications of each, especially if you have a health concern.

Essential oils are volatile - they should be stored in a cool place away from sunlight in a dark, tightly closed bottle with a stopper cap to prevent evaporation. If in doubt, always consult an aromatherapy professional before using.

Most Popular Essential Oils

Some of the most popular essential oils include:

Lavender
Rose Geranium
Grapefruit
Clary Sage
Peppermint

or visit our website for a full list of Alchemilla Organic Aromatherapy Essential Oils.

A common misconception when it comes to taking care of one's skin is that a Facial Toner is unimportant.  In fact, facial toning is the most often neglected beauty step.  Why?  Because many believe that a cleanser is all that is necessary for truly clean skin!

The fact is, many common skin problems are caused by a lack of thorough cleansing and dehydration, yet the quick and simple act of regular toning can help remedy both of these situations.

Many estheticians will tell you that toning is one of the most important steps in any skin care regimen, and they are right.  Regular toning promotes optimal skin function, hence a beautiful complexion, by providing benefits such as the following:

• Removes traces of cleanser, make-up, excess oil and chemicals from tap water.


• Supports skin's return to its natural acidic pH.
  The skin's slightly acidic pH ("acid mantle") protects against the actions of bacteria and micro-organisms living in the external environment, yet it can be affected by various factors including, for example, alkaline products (most cleansers), cosmetics products, poor nutrition and excessive perspiration.


• Hydrates and reduces oil output (except if product is alcohol-based).
  Adequately hydrated skin aids proper cell function and can help reduce oil production. When skin is lacking in hydration (eg. after cleansing and wiping dry or when exposed to dry weather or controlled climates), sebaceous glands respond by pumping out more oil. Applying a toner that contains a humectant (water-binding agent) such as glycerin, effectively re-hydrates skin and can help tremendously in reducing this oil output. (Note that toners containing alcohol should be avoided.  Alcohol strips the skin of hydration and moisture, making oily conditions worse in the long run.)


• Promotes smaller looking pores.
  Although pores cannot be 'closed' by a toner (another common misconception), a thorough cleansing process that includes a toner will help remove ingrained debris from pores, effectively decreasing the size and appearance of pores.


• Cools, refreshes and soothes skin.
  Facial toners and aromatic floral waters are delightfully refreshing post-workout, or on a dry day.  In addition, anti-irritant herbal ingredients can also help soothe reactive skin conditions.


• Aids and extends application of serum and moisturizer products.
  Applying serum or moisturizer to toner-dampened skin makes for smoother application.  In addition, it dilutes and reduces the actual amount of product needed to cover the entire area.


• Helps set make-up (especially mineral make-up).
  A facial toner or aromatic floral water, applied as a mist after mineral make-up application, can perfectly set the look of mineral make-up by giving it a moist, dewy finish without oiliness.

How and When Should I Apply a Facial Toner?

Tone the skin, at least twice per day, after all cleansing treatments (eg. cleanser, mask and/or exfoliant) and before the application of serum, treatment oil or moisturizer.

As part of a cleansing ritual, apply facial toner with a soft cotton pad.  Gently wipe the soaked cotton pad over the skin's surface.  At other times (eg. for setting make-up or refreshing the skin throughout the day) use a mist sprayer.  If you're on the go, try to keep a smaller size floral water in your purse or briefcase.

What Should I Use?

Something as natural and organic as possible!  If there are too many ingredients to count and/or you don't recognize at least half of the ingredients, it's probably best to avoid the product!  Try Alchemilla's range of all natural toners and floral waters, made with pure, organic ingredients: Clarifying Facial Toner or any of our Aromatic Floral Waters (Rose, Neroli, Rosewood or Lavender).  Alchemilla's Aromatic Floral Waters are also available in a 1oz purse/gym bag size, which is perfect for on-the-go spritzing.

About Exfoliating...

We do many things to our skin with a huge number of skin care products, some that can have wonderfully rejuvenating effects, others that can cause serious irritation, and those that, well, simply don't cut the bill (we've all bought them)!

No matter what our skin care routine or the brand/s we choose to use, there is one product that simply cannot be overlooked when it comes to great skin that is smooth and healthy, with an enlivened, translucent glow...and that is an effective facial exfoliant!

Why Exfoliate?

Exfoliating is an essential step toward healthy skin.

Every skin type, whether it is dry, oily, combination, mature or perfectly functioning, will greatly benefit from regular exfoliation.  It leads to an immediately brighter, smoother complexion that literally glows with freshness and vitality.

How Does an Exfoliant Work?

An exfoliant breaks down and removes old keratinized skin cells that naturally build up on the skin's surface.  Removing these cells effectively reveals the younger, fresher, plumper, healthier looking skin cells underneath. 

In addition, as we age, skin cell regeneration slows down significantly.  A facial exfoliant encourages faster cell turnover, meaning that these newer, younger looking cells reach the surface sooner.

As an added bonus, exfoliating helps prevent clogging of pores (and resultant breakouts) while it prepares the skin to better absorb, and make more effective, a serum and/or moisturizer treatment that follows.

What to Use

The active constituent of a facial exfoliant can be either mechanical or chemical in nature. 

Mechanical exfoliants are essentially known as "scrubs", whereas chemical exfoliants come in the form of enzyme masks, fruit peels (ie. AHA or alpha-hydroxy acid or BHA (beta-hydroxy acid), and chemical peels (extreme exfoliation that is performed by a physician usually under anasthetic).

The key to deciding which exfoliant is right for you is to make sure it is the least irritating to your skin while being the most effective at producing the optimum results you desire.

For at-home exfoliating the face and neck we recommend a gentle mechanical, natural facial exfoliant.  For your regular professional facial treatments, we recommend a natural enzyme mask (speak to your facialist about Alchemilla's Fruit Enzyme Exfoliating Mask).

What to Avoid

For the face and neck, we strongly suggest avoiding any exfoliant that contains gritty abrasives that are not uniform in shape, such as those made with nuts, seeds, nut shells or the like.  These gritty exfoliants are not ideal for the thin, sensitive skin in this region and can literally cause micro-lesions (microscopic cuts) to the skin's surface. These micro-lesions can lead to further skin issues!

It is currently also our strong recommendation to avoid AHAs.  There is ongoing concern by the FDA over the short- and long-term effects of AHA skin treatments.  Firstly, irritation potential from AHAs is extremely high and, secondly, AHA products must include a "sunburn alert" due to their causing severe sensitivity to the sun’s ultra violet rays, potentially leading to an increased risk of skin cancer.  FDA studies are in progress regarding the deterimental effects of long term use of AHA treatments. Until the findings are absolute and conclusive, it is best to avoid these treatments. 

If an over-the-counter (OTC) exfoliant (or any OTC skin care product for that matter) TINGLES, FEELS WARM, ITCHES, BURNS or CAUSES REDNESS it is, without question, irritating your skin (regardless of how the product is marketed or what the department store assistant says).  This is not good for the short- or long-term health and beauty of your skin!

How to Exfoliate

With most mechanical exfoliants, one simply applies a small amount of the chosen product to dampened skin and rolls the fingertips over the skin in circular motions, spreading and gently rubbing the exfoliant evenly over the skin's surface.  

30 seconds to 1 minute should be ample time to cover the entire face and neck. One may wish to concentrate a little more on acne and blackhead-prone areas such as the t-zone, however dry skin areas should be given adequate attention to effectively remove the dull, flaky skin cells and allow more moisture-filled, moisture absorbing cells to come to the surface.

If time is a factor, most mechanical exfoliating treatments can be easily carried out whilst you shower!

As they are often quite acidic, fruit enzyme peels are best performed by a qualified esthetician who can assess and prepare your skin correctly for the treatment, as well as quickly identify any signs of irritation and act accordingly.  There are some over-the-counter options however, in our opinion, these are probably not concentrated enough in enzymes to have any marked effect.

Generally enzyme based exfoliants are applied to cleansed skin, then, rather than scrubbing, left in place for a set period of time and finally rinsed off.  As enzyme masks can be on the acidic side, they are sometimes followed with a neutralizing lotion.

How Often Should I Exfoliate?

Don't over-do it.  

The frequency of exfoliating treatments really depends on preference, however for optimal skin condition, it should be at least once per week and not more than once every second day.  Oily or less sensitive skin types can exfoliate every second day.  Sensitive skin types should generally limit treatments to once, maybe twice per week.

What's Your Skin Type?

According to Dr Leslie Bauhmann, Dermatologist at the University of Miami, 80% of people incorrectly assess their skin type.  In fact, one study has shown that most people underestimate how oily their skin really is and this misunderstanding leads to the use of inappropriate moisturizers, making their skin even more oily and leading to enlarged, congested pores and acne problems. 

For the healthiest skin possible, one must be clear on exactly what type of skin one has so that it can be cared for with the most appropriate skin care products.  The best way to accurately determine what type of skin you have is to seek the assistance of a qualified facialist (see our list of Retailers for an Alchemilla facialist) or a medical Dermatologist.  If neither service is currently available to you, a self-diagnosis may be possible, particularly if you are very aware of how your skin behaves and feels most of the time. 

There are a number of identifying characteristics particular to each skin type.  The most common and prevalent skin types are listed below, with a link to Alchemilla's natural skin care treatment plan for that skin type:

Normal Skin

Normal skin is most commonly seen in children, however there are a rare few, extremely fortunate adults who can classify their skin as normal. Normal skin is usually characterized by:

- Little to no breakouts;
- Healthy, dewy appearance;
- Small pores and a smooth, firm texture;
- Never feels either too oily or too dry;
- Has a natural resilience to common problems like broken capillaries, spots or redness.

Normal skin can change in relation to age, the seasons or hormonal factors, so it is important to maintain good health and follow an adequate daily skin care regimen using gentle, natural products.  Normal Skin Treatment Plan >

Dry Skin

Dry skin has an inability to retain adequate moisture content in its cells. It is usually characterized by:

- A feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after bathing or swimming;
- Dull, dehydrated appearance that lacks plumpness;
- Feels rough and may itch;
- Flaking or scaling may be present;
- Tends to wrinkle easily and fine lines are prevalent.

Dry skin results from disruption to the skin's intercellular lipid structure - a group of vital substances that bond skin cells together to form a protective barrier, preserve skin's moisture content and give skin it's smooth, soft texture.  Dry Skin Treatment Plan >

Oily Skin

Oily skin is caused by an excess in the production of sebum in the skin. Although oily skin is most common in early teens and young adults, certain people may battle continually with this skin condition. Common characteristics of oily skin are:

- Skin appears thicker than other skin types;
- Over-active sebaceous glands which cause a shiny appearance;
- Larger, visible pores;
- A tendency towards blemishes and breakouts.

Oily skin may actually be caused by an inefficient moisturizer, or no moisturizer at all.  It can also be exacerbated by heavy moisturizers.  Hydrating serums or light moisturizing lotions are appropriate and necessary to help maintain the balance of sebum in oily skin.  Oily Skin Treatment Plan >

Combination Skin

Combination skin has varying patches of oily and dry or normal skin over the face. Common characteristics of combination skin are:

- Oiliness and possibly blackheads on the T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin);
- Normal to dry skin on the cheeks and around the eyes;

It is important to treat the differing areas of combination skin separately, especially when applying masks. Certain pure essential oils, such as Geranium and Rosewood, have sebum-balancing properties and, when used correctly, are an excellent choice for combination skin types.  Combination Skin Treatment Plan >

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is reactive when it comes into contact with many different external and internal stimuli. Although all skin types can be reactive, sensitive skin is commonly characterized by:

- A thin, translucent appearance;
- Skin wrinkles prematurely;
- Skin feels tight after washing;
- Dry, flaky patches and broken capillaries are sometimes present.

A sensitive skin condition can be an inherited trait, or it can be a result of weather conditions, hormonal changes, sun exposure or the skin care products you are using. Sensitive Skin Treatment Plan >

Most skin types are a combination of more than one of the above.  Correct skin diagnosis and gentle, natural skin care products are very important steps toward affecting the outcome of your regular skin care regimen.

This month's $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate Sweepstakes!

As always, our intention is to educate our readers and offer straight forward information about what is going on with your skin and how best to take care of it...but now we want to hear from you! 



Read the skin type characteristics above to find your best match, then tell us what yours is!  When you enter your comment in this blog you will be automatically entered into our March sweepstakes for a $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate!

The best description of my skin type is:

1. Normal
2. Dry
3. Oily
4. Combination
5. Sensitive
6. A combination of _______ and ________

(Feel free to elaborate).
 

Instructions and Entry Conditions

Each email address can have up to 2 entries, based on the following:

For 1 entry:  Enter your answer to our question in the Comments section of this article.  If you cannot decide on one answer, list each of your choices in order of preference.

For 1 additional entry:  Visit our website at http://www.myalchemilla.com and tell us in the Comment section, which Alchemilla Ultra-Pure Skin Care product you would most like to try. 

Conditions of Entry:

A valid email address is required to participate (your email address will not be visible to, or shared with, others).  All comments are monitored before being published.  All contributions will receive a chance to win, however we reserve the right to publish only those comments that we deem appropriate for Alchemilla’s blog.  Limit of 2 entries per email address based on the above rules.  Official close is 11.00am PT on March 31, 2009.  The winner will be selected using a random number generator, and notified soon thereafter.  Winner's coupon must be redeemed within 60 days of coupon post date.  Good luck and check back each month in 2009 for a new opportunity to win!

In this day and age almost all of us are short on time, and relaxation is a thing of the past for many. Multi-tasking is pretty normal, especially if, like me, you're a working mom!  Doesn't it make sense then, to use skin care products that contain beneficial aromatics - what better way is there to pamper your body, mind and spirit while carrying out your daily skin care routine?!

Now, as an organic skin care manufacturer, it would be all well and good to simply throw in a pretty scent at the end of the batch, and certainly way better if its source is natural, as with aromatherapy oils, however even with a natural approach one must be extremely careful about which essential oils are going to be rubbed onto the face. 

Yes, essential oils can be extremely beneficial in terms of their activity on the skin, as well as their ability to induce an overall sense of well-being, however many, in fact most essential oils (even chamomile or lavender essential oil for the extremely sensitive) can be irritating to skin, especially those with sensitive skin types.  To the untrained, it is difficult to know which essential oils are okay for the skin and which are to be avoided at all costs.  Certainly one doesn't want to have to be a licensed aromatherapist to be able to enjoy all the wonderful benefits aromatherapy has to offer!

There are countless wonderful organic aromatherapy skin care products on the market today, however one must be acutely aware that there are many products that contain strong skin irritants.  The potential for such irritation is not likely going to be advertised, especially if the irritation is not outwardly apparent (eg. with Peppermint*), or if the essential oil in question is not that familiar to even the most informed customers (eg. Peru Balsam*).

*Peppermint essential oil actually does little but trigger a deep inflammation reaction, tricking the user into believing their skin is being 'soothed'. Peru Balsam, as incredibly gorgeous as it smells, is known to be a strong skin irritant. 

Happily, in many cases, and as with all Alchemilla skin care products, the right essential oil is used at the correct percentage and in the best combination so that the benefits to the body and mind far outweigh any risk of irritation.

However, for those who are very unfamiliar about essential oils in skin care, the following are some (and this is definitely not a complete list) of the most irritating essential oils for the skin:  Cinnamon, Citronella, Clove, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lemon Balm (Balm Mint), Tolu Balsam (Peru Balsam), Peppermint, Pine, Thyme.  The irritation risk from this small list of essential oils is very high, and they should not be included in facial skin care, preferably not in body care in most instances, and certainly not in sensitive skin care.  There are many other irritating oils so, if in doubt, always test the product first - and be sure there is a satisfactory product return policy!
 

Synthetic Fragrances - Not a Good Alternative to Essential Oils

Synthetic fragrances are a cheap, toxic trick used to bump up corporate revenue and profits.  Essential oils are an expensive, but perfect alternative to synthetic fragrancing and there is really no reason why every skin care manufacturer cannot formulate their products with essential oils - they're both beautiful and beneficial to the skin.  Also, if a natural skin care company suggests they care about our wellbeing yet opt to use synthetic fragrances in their products, can we trust they really do care about anything other than the bottom line?

Also, beware many mainstream products branded as 'aromatherapy' that are actually scented with (or mostly with) synthetic fragrance.  These contain so little to no natural essential oil that the true scent of the plant or flower is not at all detectable.   Marketing synthetically fragranced products as 'aromatherapy' is simply shameful and, at best, confusing to consumers who are none the wiser.  At worse, these products won't do much more than infuse your olfactory system with a dose of toxic chemicals!

Another 'sensory' trick some companies use to fragrance their products, is to create and use replicants of natural fragrances in their products.  Unfortunately, these replicants are still synthetic, laboratory-made fragrances.  They consist of chemical constituents made to look and smell identical to those found in nature.  Their benefits no doubt include: 1) One can impart the scent of, say, musk in a product which cannot be done from nature; 2) Nature can be 'improved' upon (that is, the individual components might be the same as found in nature, but the percentages of each are artificially modified to increase the more attractive aromatic molecules within the formula); and/or 3) The fragrance can be standardized and made consistent in every batch.

Unfortunately, fragrance replicants are still cheap, not at all natural and, having been artificially manufactured, cannot possibly contain life force nor the elements of nature that may not yet have even been observed within the limits of our laboratory instruments.
 

In Summary...

1. We should not expect that every essential oil is going to be a skin irritant just because it is an essential oil, but we should have a healthy awareness.  We should definitely try to gain an understanding of which essential oils are most likely to be irritating and therefore best to avoid, and we should get to know our own skin well enough to know if it is likely to be irritated by, and from which, essential oils.


2. As I am always saying, avoid synthetic fragrances.  They do not belong on your skin!  If you can't live without a certain perfume, spray it on your clothes, not your body.  If your skin care company formulates with synthetic fragrances, don't use it (it is sometimes difficult to know because they may include 'fragrance' on their ingredient list as well as 'essential oil' and, unfortunately, including both items on an ingredient list does not mean there are ONLY essential oils in the product - you're going to need to ask the manufacturer directly and hope for an honest answer.   (NB: Species preservation is not a good enough explanation!: It was once explained to me by a natural skin care manufacturer that the reason they use synthetic rose fragrance is for species preservation.  As we all know, Rose is not an endangered species, but it was an amusing (and amazing) excuse.)  If a company is using a synthetic or 'nature identical' fragrance, it is because of the reasons explained above.


3. If essential oils are not right for your skin, resist the temptation to use them.  There are great unscented alternatives out there.  For example, Rosebay Willowherb Cream and Calendula Cream are both wonderful, essential oil-free, moisturizing creams from Alchemilla.


4. Being sensitive to essential oils also doesn't mean you can't use them for other wonderful aromatherapy treatments, or scenting and green cleaning your home!  Check our previous blog entry for "7 Ways to Use Essential Oils when Green Cleaning your Home"!

 



Now, the moment you've been waiting for...
This month's $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate Sweepstakes!

We have provided lots of food for thought in this blog.  As always, our intention is to educate our readers and hopefully offer fairly simple explanations behind what is going on in the natural skin care industry so that you might be better informed next time you are looking for a natural or organic skin care product.

Right now though, we want to hear from you!  Answer this simple question and be automatically entered into February's sweepstakes for a $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate:

My favorite essential oil is:

1. Rose
2. Lavender
3. Jasmine
4. Geranium
5. Ylang Ylang
6. Patchouli
7. Neroli
8. Sandalwood
9. Bergamot
10. Rosemary

(Feel free to also include your comments, or other essential oils that aren't on the list).
 

Instructions and Entry Conditions

Enter your answer in the Comments section of this article.  If you cannot decide on one answer, list each of your choices in order of preference.

A valid email address is required to participate (your email address will not be visible to, or shared with, others).  All comments are monitored before being published.  All contributors will receive a chance to win, however we reserve the right to publish only those comments that we deem appropriate for Alchemilla’s blog.  Limit of 1 entry per email address.  Official close is 4.00pm PT on February 27, 2009 and the winner will be selected using a random number generator, and notified soon thereafter.  Winner's coupon must be redeemed within 60 days of receipt.  Good luck and check back every month for a new opportunity to win!

Preservatives - Do we Really Need Them?

The simple answer is, yes. A broad spectrum preservative system is essential to ensuring any skin care product is able to remain fresh on a shelf for even a short period of time.

Preservatives keep a product safe from microbial contamination (bacteria, mold, fungus) and are even more important in natural skin care products, where the level of plant-based ingredients and hence, microbial growth potential, are often higher than that of more synthetically created products. 

Aren't Preservatives Hazardous to Health?

While there are concerns around some preservatives, and while it is true that there can be a slight risk of irritation to more sensitive skin types from these types of ingredients, health risks of approved preservatives have not, as yet, been established much beyond speculation.

In fact, scientists consider the risk to skin and eyes from a contaminated product to be much greater than that of a product containing an approved preservative. 

At Alchemilla, we depend on various sources for our ingredient information, including of course the manufacturer, as well as independent organizations, the FDA and cosmetics safety review board.

The amount of preservative in a skin care product is usually exceptionally minute in comparison to the rest of the ingredients.  For example, when present in any Alchemilla organic skin care product, the preservative component is often less than 0.8% of a formulation - obviously miniscule.

Organic Manuka Essential Oil (from the Leptospermum scoparium tree species of New Zealand) is one of nature's greatest gifts for healing a plethora of skin problems such as fungal infections (athlete's foot, tinea, ringworm, nail fungal problems), scalp itchiness, rashes, dandruff, acne, insect bites and stings and other common skin conditions.

Manuka has always been an important medicinal plant to the indigenous New Zealand folk (the Maori people).  It was also a very important plant to early European settlers in New Zealand, who depended upon traditional Maori medicine to treat their own health concerns. 

Among their many uses for Manuka tree, the Maori boil fresh leaves in water and inhale its vapors to help treat respiratory illnesses, sinus infections and allergies.  They also applied a poultice of crushed leaves to skin diseases and wounds to enhance healing and prevent infection.  For the treatment of dysentary, young shoots were consumed, and a warm liquid infusion from its bark and leaves was massaged into rheumatic joints and bad backs.

As is common for almost all traditional and alternative medicines however, modern science has only in the past decade or so, begun to positively validate and become excited about the potent healing properties of Manuka.

Scientific testing of pure, organic grade Manuka essential oil has shown it to be high (up to 30%) in concentrations of potent anti-microbial constituents - the reason for its unusually high anti-microbial properties.  It has in fact tested active against a broad range of micro-organisms that cause infections of the skin - some quite serious and others common like tinea and "Athlete's Foot" (in fact, some strains of Manuka essential oil have shown anti-fungal activity to be 5 times greater than Australian Tea Tree).  In addition, it has tested 15 times stronger against Staphylococcus and Streptococcus bacteria, including antibiotic-resistant strains.

Some common uses for Manuka Essential Oil include:

Fungal infections (ringworm, tinea, nail infections) - Apply 3-4 drops of undiluted organic Manuka essential oil to affected area with a cotton tip or cotton pad twice daily.  Continue to apply one week after symptoms have cleared.

Dandruff and itching scalp - Pour a normal amount of shampoo into palm of the hand, then mix in 5-10 drops of Manuka essential oil and apply, leaving on scalp for 5 minutes before rinsing.

Acne - Wash skin daily with a gentle cleansing agent that contains Manuka essential oil (try Alchemilla Foaming Facial Cleansing Gel).  Apply 2-3 drops of undiluted Manuka essential oil with a cotton tip as a spot treatment.

Athlete's Foot - Apply 4-5 drops of undiluted Manuka essential oil to affected area with a cotton pad twice daily.  Continue to apply one week after visible symptoms have cleared.

Scratches and Abrasions - Apply 4-5 drops of undiluted Manuka oil to affected area with a cotton pad to increase healing time and prevent infection.

Insect Bites and Stings - Apply 3-4 drops of undiluted organic Manuka oil to affected area with a cotton tip or cotton pad to relieve itching and reduce inflammation.

The above is just a guide based on our favorite uses for organic Manuka essential oil.

As with most Essential Oils, there are some contraindications for Manuka and it is wise to always consult a physician or certified aromatherapy professional if in any doubt.  Manuka essential oil should be avoided in pregnancy and lacation due to spasmolytic (muscle-relaxant) activity.