Alchemilla Skin Care Blog

Is there any value in calling natural skin care products "natural"?

2011-11-30T19:23:25Z

Today we received an email from a soap maker who suggested we essentially right-off the term "natural" as irrelevant and useless, as the prime strategy for promoting greater sales of their organic soaps.

I thought: "Holy cow! Did I read that right?" I mean, sure, with both "natural" and "organic" labelling being heavily abused in recent years by brands that are clearly neither, I can understand the distrust, but to essentially refuse to accept that the term "natural" has any helpful purpose at all is really not the answer to the underlying problem is it? Regardless of how a product is branded, we must, as we have always said, encourage people to read and understand full ingredient lists to determine whether it is what they hoped for. Surely that is the only real means for a customer to figure out for themselves which brands tout "natural" and are anything but natural, and which brands are really making great products from beautiful, nature-derived ingredients?

Contrary to the advice we received, I believe there is absolute relevance and value in the term "natural". In fact we at Alchemilla emphasize "natural" in our product descriptions because our skin care products are as pure, natural, organic and effective as they can be while we avoid causing harm to people and the planet. We use as many organic and natural ingredients in as high a quantity as possible, while maintaining the quality and effectiveness our customers have come to expect from us. We don't abuse the term "organic", but we do use both terms when describing our products because we believe they fairly and honestly describe our products!

Regardless of whether there is "natural" or "organic" on the front of a label, I believe 100% that it always, ALWAYS comes down to understanding all of the ingredients in a product before making a decision on whether it meets our expectations. I've come across products that are labelled 100% organic and sometimes certified, but when I read the ingredients, I find that the products are very unsophisticated or down-right not good for skin at all. For example, there are Certified Organic products that consist of 100% oils and waxes, or products that contain lemon juice as a preservative...easier to Certify but for most people, not so good for the skin.

I do feel encouraged though, that after much organic labeling abuse of recent years and a realization by many people that food is food and skin care is skin care and never the twain shall meet, a Certified Organic stamp doesn't mean the product inside the bottle is anything to write home about. Customers are truly beginning to realize that if they want organic oil or lemon juice on their skin they'll squeeze a lemon or pour from their olive oil bottle right out of their kitchen instead of looking for it in the personal care isle! More importantly, they are realizing that their satisfaction ultimately boils down to being informed about what's actually in the product and how it performs on their skin, not just how it is branded or certified, or how "foody" it sounds.

So I would say to the manufacturer who suggested we actively de-value the term "natural" and push "certified organic" as far superior to sell more of their soaps: Instead of creating more consumer confusion to differentiate our brands, can't we all keep the education ball rolling so as to protect not only the ethical brands that we want to keep on store shelves, but most importantly to protect customers from being mislead into purchasing something that may not necessarily be good for their skin, even though "certified organic" is on the front of the label!?

Furthermore, I would raise the point that if we were to delve deeper about this, we could talk about soapmaking itself, and the whole question of how it is even possible for soap to ever be Certified Organic. One may be quite shocked when understanding that the actual process of getting soap into its final state does not sound all that organic at all! In fact, when we break down the process and the ingredients needed to make soap, we become aware that soap's raw ingredient content is highly caustic (caustic soda or potassium hydroxide to be exact - most definitely not good for the planet or human in their raw form) and that the actual process of soapmaking very dangerous.

We may also be a little astonished at how easily these facts are overlooked by the passer-by, because the finished product is branded Certified Organic and the ingredient list reads "saponified" oils as the only hint that the product was originally oil mixed with caustic soda! Of course, there is no caustic soda in the final product, and soapmakers argue that it's irrelevant, but what I want to bring to light here is that many personal care manufacturers (soap or otherwise) would rather people blindly trust a Certified Organic stamp than really look into the facts. What we want to do is push the need to understand the facts before deciding on a product and to bring to light that all the facts are not always available from a stamp that reads "Certified Organic".

All of that being said, we're not wanting to suggest that organic soap isn't a good thing. On the contrary, it's wonderful and I certainly prefer it over conventional soap! The purpose of my example is to highlight a simple truth to offer a broader perspective on the Certified Organic personal care industry in general, and whether it truly represents what many want us to believe it is, or whether we need to be asking more questions.

And although it reads like we are attempting to de-value "Certified Organic" labelling, we're not. In my opinion, Certified Organic brands are much preferable to chemical-laden brands. However, it's all a matter of perspective.

I'm also not trying to de-value soap itself. I am simply protesting the approach some brands take to dissuade consumers from making informed, conscious choices based on fact, ie. suggesting they blindly trust certification labels as their only means of determining a product's true value.

At Alchemilla we believe there is plenty of market share for everyone and that we should support, not demonize, any company that is producing high quality natural goods as an alternative to chemical-laden junk. If we really care about people and the planet, why not cut out the bologne around product branding (it's an ineffective way to win ongoing consumer confidence after all) and focusing on producing and promoting safe, effective, pleasant, sustainable products that people want, and that do no harm to person or planet...AND to support others doing the same.

Why not apply the knowledge we have to ensure that we are creating the best possible products, then encourage buyers of those products to choose based on actual product ingredients, how it feels and performs, whether it's compatible with my skin, what are the brand's motivations?

(This is not to say that we haven't had a bee in our bonnet in the past with a few so-called "natural" brands who shamelessly continue to mis-label their products in an effort to fool consumers (eg. knowingly using synthetic or "nature identical" fragrances in their products and calling them essential oils on the label, or using high percentages of alcohol or a very low-pH (both detrimental to the skin) as alternatives to an adequate preservative system, all in an effort to appear more clean and natural. I admit, I am guilty - and I'm not sure I'll ever stop grumbling about that!)

There really are many independently owned companies, uncertified, that are producing truly beautiful and effective natural products using high quality ingredients, that deserve recognition over and above certification stamps or clever marketing. The key for the consumer in finding such products is to not immediately right-off anything! The key is to know what you are getting by learning a little about the company, reading the ingredients, doing the homework, and trying the product.

From one manufacturer to another I would like to say: Let's stop putting down each other as the only way to differentiate our products and win market share! Let's build up and expand what we know for sure is truly good, and encourage others to do their due diligence, to trust in their own research and not blindly trust a product's branding as the only means of making a decision!

*In fact, we're so not trying to de-value soap. After all, we're about to begin selling beautifully crafted organic soaps that we found so good, we decided they would be the only products we do not make in our own lab! We simply won't be promoting these gorgeous soaps by de-valuing the word "natural"!

Alchemilla "Calming" Products work to Soothe my AHA-irritated Skin!

2011-04-21T20:53:00Z

This is a true story. It happened today!

Being in the natural skin care manufacturing business, I get to try a huge number of beauty products from many different companies, learning about what works well, what doesn't, what ingredients to consider and what to avoid when developing any new Alchemilla products.

One kind of product that estheticians sometimes ask us for is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid-containing exfoliator for them to use on clients.

Although I have a strong feeling about the irritation potential and long term safety of AHA's and BHA's on the skin and probably won't be releasing such a product any time soon (our Exfoliating Face Wash Cream does a marvelous job already, even on sensitive skin) we have had the opportunity to try the odd few AHA and BHA products with a view to educating ourselves about the short-term results versus potential adverse reactions and possibly re-visiting our decision not to manufacture them.

Which is why it so happened that a few days ago I was handed a tube of AHA-containing product and suggested I try it on my own skin.

I went ahead and applied it the first day according to the instructions. A little tingling but nothing significant considering a slight amount of discomfort is expected with these types of products. The second day a little more tingling but again, nothing significant. The third day (yesterday) a lot more tingling, but it disappeared in a few minutes.

This morning, however, I awoke to find I had broken out overnight in red acne bumps - about 8 spots on the sides of my nose and 10-15 over each of my lower cheeks - more spots at one time than I have ever had in my entire life! Although I have sensitive skin and have had the odd hormonal 'spot' since my teenage years, I have never before had so many spots at one time on my face! It truly gave me a sense of panic, but more importantly a deep compassion toward those who have to deal frustratingly with chronic acne on a daily basis.

Aside from the initial horror this latest skin fiasco of mine triggered, believe it or not it has actually been a truly positive experience for me. It has not only solidified my feeling about avoiding chemical exfoliants, but given me the opportunity to really put to test our anti-irritant skin care products! (Sometimes I secretly hope for a mild skin reaction so that I can re-confirm how wonderful our anti-irritant botanical remedies are!)

I got to work immediately on restoring my skin to its original creamy smoothness, not thinking for a moment that this would clear up any sooner than a few days at least! I immediately cleansed my face with Alchemilla Calming Cleansing Milk (to get rid of any residual AHA product that might continue to irritate), rinsed off then gently blotted my skin with a clean towel and applied about 10 drops of Calming Lotion to the irritated areas and rubbed that in gently until it was almost undetectable. Finally, I applied the usual amount of Rosebay Willowherb Cream (my daily moisturizer) to my entire face.

It has been about 7 hours since I did this and my skin has shown a remarkable recovery - about 80% better than it was this morning. Our skin care products were created with my own skin in mind because of a natural tendency of my skin to react to many stimulants - eg. from skin products, the garden, inside the home, even plastic bags - so I have complete faith in our products to do what they say they will do, but this incredibly quick response is beyond what I could have hoped for even from our incredibly effective formulations!

Along with Calming Salve, the above Alchemilla products are truly excellent botanical-based organic products for sensitive skin and highly effective natural remedies for calming irritation reactions. If you have sensitive skin or skin that has a tendency to react to certain chemicals, it is worth having them on hand.

I am relieved that my skin is almost back to normal so quickly. Some people are not so lucky and have to deal with these problems over a longer period of time (I remember a school friend who for many months had to apply all kinds of steroid creams to get her reactive skin under control after contact with some common cleaning chemicals). For me this has certainly created a stronger conviction about steering clear of AHA products, especially if one has sensitive skin that tends to break out in response to allergens the way mine does. I just don't think it's worth it when there are much gentler, effective alternatives available, like the organic skin care products made by us at Alchemilla.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

How Synthetic Fragrances are affecting our Lives...and not in a good way

2011-01-12T19:27:00Z

Have you ever walked down the detergent aisle of a grocery store and held your breathe because of an instinctive feeling that perhaps all of these aromas bombarding your senses might not be good for you?

Whether we realize it or not, our bodies are being constantly invaded by synthetic aromatic chemicals. A simple walk down a grocery store "cleaners" aisle, plugging in a home "air-freshener", or sniffing our way through the department store fragrance department exposes us to literally thousands of aromatic chemicals that are at best affecting our ability to appreciate real, more subtle scents that come from true nature or at worst poisoning our bodies - in fact almost all of the chemicals found in fragrance oils are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum, and include chemicals that are capable of causing birth defects, cancer, allergies such as asthma or central nervous system issues.

A simple example of how synthetic perfumes have conditioned our senses for the worst, is to perhaps examine one's interpretation of what a Rose fragrance smells like. This is one of the most popular of all scents, but how many of us can say for sure that we know what a REAL Rose oil smells like?

What often comes as a surprise, and sometimes disappointment to the consumer, is that a whiff of pure, natural Rose oil (the kind that comes from real Rose petals) is not equal to the experience of sinking one's nose into that heavenly rose garden and breathing in deeply!

Adding pure rose essential oil to a cosmetic product is not going to produce that result at all. As a result, the fragrance industry has for decades flooded the market with various synthetically created interpretations of Rose for the purpose of meeting the consumer's desired sensory experience. The draw-backs of this are outlined above - 1) more exposure to toxic chemicals and; 2) most people do not know what real Rose perfume actually smells like, nor can they appreciate it when the opportunity to experience it arises. Often, when given the opportunity to smell true Rose oil, some will go so far as to say "that's not rose!"

Whether intentional or not, our bodies are being invaded by toxic aromatic chemicals. Just a walk down a grocery store detergent aisle, plugging in a home fragrancer, or sniffing our way through a department store fragrance department, is exposing us to literally thousands of synthetic aromatic chemicals that are conditioning our senses into a confused understanding of what real things actually smell like and ultimately affecting our ability to appreciate the subtle scents that come from nature.

Although synthetic fragrances may often smell pleasant, they are usually comprised of a toxic chemical cocktail and, at best, do nothing to lift our consciousness or offer the true healing potential of pure essential plant oils.

At Alchemilla we offer 100% pure, undiluted, organically grown essential oils and blends as our way of re-introducing Mother Nature's authentic gift of true aroma to all. Eliminating synthetic fragrances from our homes and our beauty cabinets, and opting for an authentically natural alternative, means we are not only creating a healthier atmosphere for our families, but giving ourselves the opportunity to benefit from the many therapeutic properties of pure, natural essential oils.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

New 'Skin Therapy' Calming Salve

2010-10-21T21:53:00Z

If you’ve had an opportunity to try our new ‘Skin Therapy’ Calming Salve youwill no doubt have found that, as with all Alchemilla products, this wonderfulherbal remedy does what it says it will do – soothe minor wounds and irritation,as well as address itchiness and irritation after gardening and minor insectbites.

With its concentration of organic anti-irritant botanicals, Calming Salve is a wonderful gift for moms, campers, hikers, gardeners, etc. Italso makes a wonderful fragrance-free, chemical-free moisturizer for sensitiveskin, or skin that temporarily needs extra gentle daily care.

Calming Salve was designed with me, personally, in mind! I havehighly sensitive skin that reacts to bites and scratches like nothing else. Ioften find myself in the Alchemilla herb garden, so I frequently experience theperils of prickly comfrey, rose thorns and oh, those stinging nettles! I alsohave an occasional skin reaction when I handle cats, and a recent adoption oftwo abandoned kittens has served to re-emphasize that little challenge! I’vetried herbal salves before (preferring not to reach for pharmaceuticals if I canhelp it) but so far have found nothing that works as quickly and effectively asour Calming Salve.

Each soothing herb was carefully selected for this synergistic blend and itwas decided early in Calming Salve’s development that if this product doesn’tcreate anything less than a miracle on my own skin, we wouldn’t sell it toanyone else! But it has truly lived up to its name. In fact, I callthis wonderful combination of soothing herbs my “little miracle-in-a-jar”and keep several around the house to quickly and effectively calm my skin aftergardening…or playing with those naughty kittens! Any time I get a persistentitch or minor rash, or when one of my children complains of a scratch or insectbite, I reach for this salve and it works every time.

Our special price of $8.00 means right now is agreat time to try ‘Skin Therapy’ Calming Salve … stock up early for thoseChristmas stocking stuffers!

Dry Skin - The Alchemilla Approach

2010-06-22T23:30:00Z

In the warmer, balmier months of spring and summer, many of us can get through the day with a little light moisturizer on our skin. Or, for those who are really lucky, a light serum and perhaps a spritz of hydrating floral water every so often. However, those of us with dry skin conditions usually need something more no matter what the climate.

Dryness is a very common skin condition, and even more so in the colder months of the year. In fact, individuals who normally have perfect, trouble-free skin for most of the year can often suffer from dry skin conditions as soon as the outside temperature begins to drop.

Why is this so? Dry skin occurs more in the colder months because, generally, the cold air outside combined with hot air inside creates a low relative humidity. This low humidity typically causes the skin to lose moisture.

Other common causes of dry skin include:

Bathing or showering too frequently;
Using harsh soaps;
Deficiency of vitamins (specifically A and/or D);
Illness;
Overexposure to sunlight;
Hormonal changes/imbalance;
Some medications.

Anyone with a dry skin condition may be tempted to immediately slather on an extra-rich moisturizing cream to immediately relieve that dry, taut feeling and 'disappear' those dehydrated fine lines. Seems logical. Certainly, extra-rich facial products can provide an instant sense of relief and the feeling that somehow we are winning the battle against our moisture-depleted skin. Unfortunately however, richer is not always better, especially if you don't want to create a dependence cycle with your skin care products, and you do want your skin to achieve a natural balance.

Ideally, when caring for a dry skin condition, one should use organic skin care products that nourish adequately enough to minimize trans-epidermal water loss, yet do not over-nourish with heavy oils and waxes, which only serve to clog the pores and not encourage the skin to respond, by itself, to environmental changes.

It is important to understand that our body has the innate ability to maintain homeostasis (equilibrium) by itself, and that supporting this process with biologically compatible, plant-based skin care products, rather than inhibiting it with products that over-nourish or stress our skin more, can do much to promote inner resilience and a complexion that radiates health and vitality, regardless of external factors.

Dry Skin Care Products to Try...

Perfect for colder months, Alchemilla's Calendula Cream and Rosebay Willowherb Cream will help keep skin adequately moisturized and protected while not over-nourishing and inhibiting skin's inner balance. These organic facial moisturizers contain powerful plant-derived emollients that nourish and protect from trans-epidermal water loss, and natural humectants to draw water from the atmosphere and hold it on the skin. They also contain organic botanical extracts to address specific needs - Calendula Cream can address dry skin that tends to peel or chafe and Rosebay Willowherb Cream can address issues of sensitive and reactive skin.

When aging from environmental pollution is a concern, Alchemilla's Rehydrating Day Care Cream contains a potent natural antioxidant complex to address free radical damage, and the right balance of emollients and a natural humectant to moisturize and hydrate without over-nourishing.

In the evening, or if your skin needs that little bit of extra moisture during the day than most day creams provide, a Rehydrating Night Balm is perfectly formulated with a unique blend of powerful organic moisturizing ingredients and regenerative herbal extracts to nourish, nurture and enhance skin's natural restorative processes during rest time.

A humidifier at one's office desk or in the bedroom at night can generate a good amount of moisture in the otherwise dry air. If a humidier isn't a practical solution, an Aromatic Floral Water (with in-built humectant) can be spritzed directly onto the skin and into the immediate environment throughout the day. In combination with a humectant-containing facial moisturizer, this addition of moisture to the air will do wonders to keep those skin cells plumped up full of moisture.

Surprisingly, also important for dry skin care is regular exfoliation with a gentle product to de-flake, loosen and remove epithelial build-up to prevent clogging of pores and improve absorption of your moisturizer. We suggest a mechanical (physical), rather than chemical (AHA, BHA), exfoliation treatment that is suitable for dry, and often sensitive, skin types. Try Alchemilla's Exfoliating Face Wash Cream. This incredibly gentle organic facial exfoliant's is highly concentrated in tiny smooth beads of jojoba and can be used on even the most sensitive skin to instantly uncover a smooth, soft, youthful glow without the risk of irritation that comes with a chemical exfoliant.

A simple shift in our understanding of what dry skin really needs can make all the difference when we are trying to create for ourselves a better chance at minimizing ongoing skin problems and achieving the radiant, balanced complexion we've always wished for.

Oh, Dear Frankincense!

2010-06-22T23:22:00Z

Aromatherapy has been a part of my life for over 20 years now, and although it has, for the most part, been an incredibly joyful and rewarding experience, during my 'apprenticeship' days or, better put, the early days when I didn't really believe in the ability of essential oils to do anything much more than smell nice (or that they were potent alternative medicine tools to be used very sparingly) I did get myself into trouble more than one time. I hope, that by reading this, anyone who is inexperienced, or doubts the power of essential oils, will think twice before adopting a nonchalant attitude toward them!

My first story takes me back to a time when I was at work in my office job and happened to be suffering from menstrual cramps. I had decided, rather than reach for a pain-killer, I would get 'all-natural-like' and give Clary Sage a go. So, right there at my office desk, I went ahead and opened the pure, undiluted bottle of Clary Sage essential oil and poured (yes, 'poured') a 'little' into my hands. I then quickly rubbed my hands together and spread the oil over my abdomen. After that, while I was in the process of closing the bottle, I happened to spill a little more of the oil over my hands. I didn't panic. I just didn't like the ridiculously strong aroma which had taken over my hands, body, entire office cubicle and all other cubicles within a 50 foot range (I wasn't popular at work that morning).

I went ahead and rubbed the excess oil off with a tissue, then carried on typing. Within about 5 minutes, however I started to feel kind of light-headed, and a little nauseous. It puzzled me greatly at first. I stopped typing, and as the smell completely engulfed me, I started thinking: "Maybe this essential oil stuff really works?", and: "Oh no, if it does, maybe I got too much on myself?", and "Oh no, maybe I might die?" After 5 minutes of torturing myself, I ended up calling a sweet colleague from the 39th floor (who I knew was a trained aromatherapist) and finished up in sick bay with her cleaning the excess essential oil from my hands using olive oil and tissues, assuring me I'd be fine, lecturing me on the potency of the oils, while rubbing my feet to keep me calm, and keeping a close watch while the effects of the Clary Sage 'over-dose' wore off! Thank goodness I had her to keep me sane that day! Within an hour or so I was feeling much better and able to carry on with work as though nothing had ever happened...

But that was my first lesson in aromatherapy safety: Understand the essential oil you are using. Always keep the orifice reducer in place! Do not use essential oils undiluted on the skin*. Never doubt the power of aromatherapy to greatly affect the body and mind! *A small number of essential oils may be used undiluted, sparingly, only if indicated by the supplier or a qualified aromatherapist.

A year or so later I learned my next lesson. I was experimenting with a bath oil recipe in my kitchen. While messing about with this oil and that, I managed to get a drop of cinnamon essential oil on my fingers. I quickly wiped it off with a tissue and continued to work, but sometime down the line I rubbed the edge of my mouth with that same hand and, ouch! That burned for quite a few minutes. The same thing happened another time with Peppermint at the corner of my eye. My second lesson: Some essential oils are very irritating. And again, understand the essential oil you are using.

Now, you would think that with my hair-raising Clary Sage experience, I would have learned about the power of essential oils by now. However, it appears I needed yet another lesson to really drum into my head once and for that essential oils are powerful! This next experience was what sealed the coffin for me when it came to "care and respect for essential oils" and "not embarrassing yourself with aromatherapy"!:

One evening, when I was feeling all zen after meditating and being at home peacefully alone, I decided I would go one step further and do a frankincense foot rub on myself. I'd heard Frankincense was supposed to help with insomnia and I had learned at Natural Medicine College that a foot rub is one of the fastest ways to get an aromatherapy oil into the blood stream. I wanted to try for a really good night's sleep, so I placed about 10 drops of Frankincense essential oil into a tablespoon of carrier oil. At least by then I knew that applying it undiluted would be a bad idea, right?. So I went ahead and rubbed it into my feet (according to my Naturopathy teacher, the soles of the feet allow the most efficient absorption of essential oils into the blood stream). I was feeling so nourished and loved, and excited at the prospect of a deep restful slumber. Boy, did I get more than I expected...

After I was done, I got myself all cozy in bed and waited for the deep relaxation and tranquility to take hold. What took hold was hardly relaxing, or tranquil. In fact, after about 10 minutes, I started hallucinating. Every time I closed my eyes the bed felt as though it was spinning and I kept envisioning all kinds of weird things behind my eyelids. I would sit up, eyes wide open, then lay back down and close them again. But the same thing kept happening every time I tried to relax. It got so much so, that I began to panic (my trade-mark response to many things in life). The panic then made me short of breath and before long I was into a full-blown anxiety attack. I rushed into the shower with olive oil in hand, and rubbed a whole lot of it furiously into my feet, washing it off with soap and warm water, then repeating the process over and over again, hoping it would be a miracle cure for my 'condition'. It didn't seem to work (or, at least, my panic attack told me I was getting worse).

So, being in a state of panic (which, in case you've never had a panic attack, also causes an inability to think straight and makes one rather delusional about the true danger of the situation), I found myself with no alternative but to contact the Poisons Control Center. Yes, that's right, the Poisons Control Center. I must have figured it would be less bad than going to the ER.

I was relieved to have gotten straight through to an information officer, who allowed me to fully explain to her what I had done. After I was finished explaining the situation, there was a very long, stunned silence at the other end of the phone. Finally, she repeated slowly back to me "Frankincense oil?...on your feet? Ma'am, this is the Poisons Control Center!".

At that moment it was as though that Poisons Control lady was standing right next to me and had slapped my face and told me to snap out of it, because lo and behold, that's exactly what happened. Before it got ugly (and not from my end of the line) I sheepishly (and quickly) ended the phone call and went back to bed. The hallucinations continued for a little while, but I did fall asleep and, actually, I slept really well that night, considering!

Lessons learned (again): Understand the essential oil you are using. Use essential oils sparingly (sometimes 1 drop really is enough!). Never doubt the power of aromatherapy to greatly affect the body and mind!

Okay, so this concludes my little essay on essential oil safety. It is not meant to frighten anyone away from aromatherapy. On the contrary, aromatherapy is a wonderful alternative healing tool that also has extremely pleasurable sensory benefits for anyone interested in trying it, even if it is to simply fragrance a room in a non-toxic fashion.

And, although I've imparted my own silly humor into the equation, my aim is to raise awareness amongst readers who may not yet fully understand or believe in the power of essential oils. It is also by no means a comprehensive list of what you need to know about using them. More detailed information on the subject can be found at our website: essential oil safety.

A final note about the Poisons Control Center: They're very busy people and I did feel like a complete idiot at the time, however I don't want to discourage anyone from calling them if ever in any doubt about one's health and safety.

Hmm, that reminds me of another time when I decided to call them: This one time, I was making soap in my kitchen, and I had to use this really caustic stuff called lye, and a little got on my pinky finger...and.......

Cosmetics Ingredient Safety: Who can we Believe?

2010-06-11T02:29:00Z

As Alchemilla customers know, we are a natural skin care manufacturer with a huge social/environmental/health conscience combined with the fundamental goal of creating truly exquisite, shelf-safe, health-safe, toxin-free products that do what they say they will do. We also endeavor to educate readers of our blog and visitors to our website as much as possible about cosmetics ingredients, especially those ingredients we use in Alchemilla products, and ultimately promote a common sense approach to safe skin care.

For every piece of factual, scientific based data available however, there seems to be at least 10 ‘experts’ who in their blogs claim toxicity or harmfulness of every ingredient natural skin care manufacturers add to their products to ensure they are safe as well as effective. Popular spotlighted ingredients are the preservatives, which are paramount to ensuring one can safely store a product on the shelf for a reasonable period of time without fear of microbial contamination. We’ve even found a blog that deliberately quotes an FDA’s warning out of context in order to grow a culture of fear around phenoxyethanol, a popular preservative in natural skin care products.

With the huge and seemingly growing amount of unsubstantiated information found online, it was refreshing for us recently then, to have come upon a website (personalcaretruth.com) developed by a group of individuals who have been researching personal care ingredients for decades. The group is dedicated to delivering actual facts about cosmetics ingredients, and to challenge the scare tactics of fear mongerers who it appears would have consumers believe that almost anything that isn’t a plant is harmful to your health. With real scientific data, the goal of personalcaretruth.com is to clear up many misconceptions about ingredients, particularly in respect to how they are used (topically) and how they are found within the context of a finished product (ie. often in tiny proportions).

Although we have regularly endorsed excellent resources for ingredient safety information and refer to these often in our own research, we have had to contend with a lot of the data being from assessments made of ingredients at 100% concentration, or from a consideration that an ingredient may or may not have been possibly contaminated with something else. In addition, almost every cosmetic ingredient MSDS (material safety data sheet) has warnings which can sometimes seem alarming. MSDS information is for a 100% concentration of the ingredient, and even simple Sunflower or Hazelnut Oils, in accordance with their respective MSDS’s, require safety goggles and have specific First Aid measures in case they get into contact with the skin!

Additionally, within the context of a skin care product, many ingredients that are approved for use but aren’t ‘natural’ in the strictest sense, or have potential for irritation at a high percentage, are often found in extremely minute proportions. For example citric acid, an important pH buffer, or potassium sorbate, a food grade preservative, are sometimes used in Alchemilla products, but usually at less than .1%). At such a tiny concentration, even ingredients considered irritating have little potential of doing harm to an end use.

It would be an understatement, then, to announce how very pleased we were to finally come across personalcaretruth.com, whose focus is on providing scientifically backed information about personal care ingredients within the context of the products in which they are found.

One might argue that the personalcaretruth.com group is not unbiased because one or two of their founders have their own skin care manufacturing business. A fair charge, but would it not also be fair then to question who is behind many of the alarmist ingredient toxicity claims on the other side of the fence? Are they unbiased?

A quick online search will find many of the claims and warnings are from brand manufacturers themselves, or even consumer advocate organizations (within which have founding members with their own brand of personal care products - a conflict of interest to say the least).

Personalcaretruth.com is potentially the first of many online equalizers to come, and a welcome one at that. It is, after all, becoming increasingly confusing for the conscientious consumer to figure out what is and isn’t safe to put on their bodies, and more often than not they tend to believe the first thing they read about an ingredient (which on the internet is often accompanied by no scientific backing).

In the end, common sense will prevail. If one really wants to get a level-headed answer on the question of cosmetics ingredient safety, it boils down to ensuring that whatever data one bases a conclusion upon, it should come from the most unbiased source possible, with proper scientific resources to adequately study the ingredient as it is meant to be used within the context of a product (topically (ie. externally), often in tiny concentrations). As much as we’re not happy with the FDA’s inability to fully regulate the personal care industry and what this has meant for the unaware consumer, it is one of the most reliable sources available for exact data. Another is the cosmetics ingredient review board and, although there has been argument that this group is not completely unbiased, they have undertaken a lot of research and re-research of the ingredients for which they report and provide an excellent guideline.

Ingredient alarmism seems to have ‘gone viral’ and I often ask myself “why has this happened?” Certainly, with the information now available to us, it makes perfect sense that we cannot afford NOT to check ingredient lists and do our own research.

When I personally come across alarming yet unsubstantiated claims however, I do often question (as I hope most do) what’s in it for the ingredient alarmist? I remind myself that any individual or company can hide behind a blog, and often do. And it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that unsubstantiated ingredient toxicity claims can keep independent businesses like ours busy defending our formulations, as well as trying to figure out how to create a shelf-safe product without the use of an adequate preservative, and checking and re-checking their research, that we finish up with very little time to do what they originally intended – create safe, natural, effective beauty products that have real, authentic results!

Hmm, unsubstantiated ingredient alarmism sounds like a good strategy for gaining and maintaining a competitive edge in the natural product market, however Alchemilla customers can be assured that we won't be creating a market based on that!

United Plant Savers - Saving Medicinal Plants from Extinction

2010-04-13T03:14:00Z

The ability to share information through the internet as well as innovative research in the field of natural medicine and health products has led to a greater demand for skin care that is composed of organic ingredients. Educated consumers no longer want products that go in or on their bodies to include sulfates, dyes, synthetic fragrances, or other destructive components.

Along with this increased interest in organic and botanical based skin care, which is a positive development, has come the need for more intense cultivation of the plants that make such products possible. As a result, increased usage of herbal products across the globe, as well as habitat destruction due to harvesting of the herbs or unrelated man-made development, is causing a shortage of some important medicinal plant resources.

This problematic side effect is an issue that must be addressed, both for the sustainability of many plant species and so that consumers can continue to receive these beneficial products. One important organization that is working to protect the plant life that is essential to natural skin care products is United Plant Savers.

15 years ago United Plant Savers adopted the mission to protect at-risk native medicinal plants of the United States and Canada and their native habitats. United Plant Savers offers outreach in the form of research, education, and protection efforts that all serve the purpose of providing an abundant renewable supply of medicinal plants.

United Plant Savers works to educate consumers in a variety of different ways. One of the most important contributions that UpS has made is an extensive analysis of wild medicinal plants and their current use. The research has resulted in a list of plants that are considered to be most at-risk and a secondary list that contains plants which should be watched for possible problems. These lists were created using empirical reports and scientific studies, and this work continues today.

UpS has developed an At-Risk Assessment Tool, available on their website, through which people can enter detailed information about a particular herb species and have the plant assessed for its current risk of extinction. This ongoing research ensures that people who want to join in the effort to protect medicinal herbs are given the most current information.

In addition to the work that UpS does to monitor the various wild plants and record their level of security in the environment, the organization also engages in extensive outreach through several venues. UpS provides grants to communities that are committed to caring for the land on which wild plants are growing and to educating others about the importance of this preservation. They have land consultants who will visit residential or commercial property and help the owners restore the natural ecosystem that previously existed or transform the land into a new approach towards sustaining wildlife. Another way that UpS influences communities is through the workshops they offer across the country to teach people about how to plant with the future in mind. And, for those who are already making contributions towards the efforts of stewardship, UpS presents an annual Medicinal Plant Conservation Award.

One of the missions of Alchemilla is to promote education among our clients concerning the plants that we use in our line of organic and natural skin care products. Following the example set by United Plant Savers, we take seriously our responsibility to be good stewards of the earth. We truly value the herbs and other plant life that we believe offer the best way to care for your skin. Our customers should be able to buy our products not only with an appreciation for the positive effects on their appearance, but also with an understanding of why protecting the herbs we use is so important to our future.

When examining the ingredients that Alchemilla Ultra-Pure Skincare uses in the development of its organic products, customers may notice that we include a few plants that are listed as at-risk species by United Plant Savers. Note that we do not use these plants in any way that is detrimental to their survival as a species. In fact, the Echinacea used in our formulations is grown by us on our own farm in Oregon. We are also beginning cultivation of the Eyebright plant on our land and have discontinued our use of American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius), which is at-risk, and switched to Siberian ginseng species (Eleutherococcus senticosus) with very similar activity to the former but from a different, sustainable plant family. We do not harvest any at-risk or to-watch species from the wild nor do we ask suppliers to do so. Any new herbs that we decide to use and that are currently considered to be endangered to any degree will be grown by Alchemilla on our farm.

As a company that places high importance on an organic and natural approach to health and beauty, we at Alchemilla are encouraged by the ever-growing market for products created from the amazing plant life that surrounds us. Every day, more people are learning about the medicinal and clinical benefits of herbs. With this wonderful awareness and popularity comes the danger that demand will outpace the cultivation of many species. In the rush to grow and consume plants, no matter how honorable the intention, we run the danger of losing these plants altogether. We are grateful for the efforts of United Plant Savers to educate the public about the fragile ecosystem that we all share. The work of United Plant Savers remind all of us to take proactive steps to protect the plants whose medicinal benefits we have only begun to understand!

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

The Science of Aromatherapy

2009-09-25T00:00:00Z

"Smell is a potent wizard that transports us across thousands of miles and all the years we have lived. The odors of fruits waft me to my southern home, to my childhood frolics in the orange orchard. Other odors, instantaneous and fleeting, cause my heart to dilate joyously or contract with remembered grief. Even as I think of smells, my nose is full of scents that start to awake sweet memories of summers gone and ripening fields far away." Helen Keller

The Science of Aromatherapy

Aromatherapy is an alternative healing modality that focuses on the treatment of imbalance in the body mind and/or spirit using aromatic plant essential oils. It is a unique offering to humans from plants, and a vital link with the riches of the natural world.

Essential oils contain pheromones, hormones, antibiotics and cell regenerating agents that nourish, energize and protect the plant and play an important role in strengthening the plant's immunity toward disease by killing bacteria, warding off insect pests and neutralizing viruses.

By extracting precious essential oils from plants we can harness their individual healing qualities and use them to support the health and happiness of our body and mind.

Essential oils work both physically through the penetration of the skin and psychologically when introduced via vaporization or direct inhalation. Our sense of smell is a highly sensitive and subtle mode of perception that acts mainly on a subconscious level. Olfactory nerves, which begin in the nostrils, are the gateway that leads directly to the part of our brain responsible for memory and emotions (the limbic system).

All aroma molecules affect a variety of body functions, such as our nervous system, hormones, body temperature, stress reaction and sexual arousal, as well as conscious thought and reaction. A naturally scented product is armed with nature’s healers (essential oils) and can do plenty to ensure these vital bodily processes are stimulated in a most natural and gentle manner.

Top, Middle and Base Notes

An essential oil is usually rated for its volatility, and categorized by perfumers as either a Top, Middle or Base note. Top notes tend to vaporize quickly and need the utmost care in storage due to their volatility. In comparison, Base notes evaporate slowly and linger in the air and on the skin the longest.

In an aromatherapy blend or natural perfume, a most balanced and lasting oil combination is one that includes all three notes - a Top, Middle and Base.

Natural versus Synthetic

Pure, natural essential oils are highly concentrated extracts from the botanical world and are obtained through steam distillation or some form of expression (cold pressed or otherwise). Although they are oils, they are not oily or greasy.

Synthetic, or imitation fragrant oils are aromatic compounds that have been artificially manufactured in a laboratory using various, and often many, chemicals. These products usually carry exotic plant names yet usually contain no plant material at all. For example, there is no such thing as a natural frangipani or strawberry oil. While synthetic fragrances may smell pleasant, they have no therapeutic value as they completely lack the undiluted active ingredients found in plants. Although they are often marketed as room fragrances, it is questionable as to whether they should be used as such, given the toxic nature of many of the ingredients found in them.

>> More information on Aromatherapy and Essential Oils

>> Organic Aromatherapy and Essential Oil Products

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

Rosebay Willowherb Cream

2009-08-20T02:41:00Z

Alchemilla's Rosebay Willowherb Cream is a potent soothing, organic facial moisturizer that well deserves its top seller position in our natural skin care line.

Made with Rosebay Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract that is grown on our own organic farm, this potent herbal topical remedy, has a soothing, calming effect on irritated skin, making it a wonderful sensitive skin facial moisturizer and excellent for minor bites and irritations.

Rosebay Willowherb, or Epilobium angustifolium, extract not only has powerful anti-irritant properties, scientific studies are showing that topical anti-irritants can stimulate the synthesis of new collagen and elastin (proteins which give skin its elasticity), giving it natural anti-aging properties too! What's more, studies on Epilobium angustifolium are showing promising anti-acne actions.

Although there is relatively little information available about Epilobium angustifolium when compared to more traditional plant medicines such as Calendula, and while this is possibly due to its commonly known status as a 'weed'!, the incredibly effective anti-irritant properties of this plant make it sometimes known as "Nature's Alternative to Hydrocortisone".

Indeed, we at Alchemilla have had great success in our own personal use and that of friends, family, colleagues and customers. One Alchemilla esthetician used the cream on her hormonal acne in the evening and reported that it had all but vanished by the next morning and some Alchemilla customers, including yours truly, keep this facial moisturizer as a constant in their beauty cabinet.

As this delightful plant grows, we view it's long, narrow leaves and bright purple flowers atop tall branches not as a weed, but as a powerful and perhaps under-valued natural healer. And although many a gardener might be tempted to pull this plant out as soon as it rises up from the soil, we only find ourselves urging it on with much enthusiasm!

Find out more and/or buy Rosebay Willowherb Cream >

Herbs that Energize Passive, Sluggish Skin

2009-08-10T23:36:00Z

With beach weather still in full swing, we thought it would be a good time to talk about the powerful herbal ingredients found in Juniper Energizing Body Rub – a stimulating organic blend of pure essential oils and perfectly emollient carrier oils that energize passive, sluggish skin to improve its texture and reduce the appearance of cellulite.

Outlined below are the four organic herbal extracts found in Alchemilla's body rub, that are among the most powerful natural anti-cellulite and lymphatic drainage herbal ingredients available:

Juniper (Juniperus communis)

Juniper is well known for its strong diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties.

In fact, Juniper is such a powerful stimulant that it has been used to trigger menstruation. 17th Century herbalist, Nicholas Culpeper, recommended taking the berries to help speed childbirth and Native Americans used it as a contraceptive. Obviously pregnant women are warned to avoid use of this herb.

Due to its warming effect on the skin, Juniper has a long history of use to ease the pain of arthritis, gout and rheumatic problems.

Its highly purifying effects promote circulation, release of trapped fluid and accumulated waste from underlying skin tissue.

Cypress (Cupressus sempivirens)

With its various tannins, Cypress is another toning and highly astringent herb that was once used by Ancient Greeks to treat dysentery and respiratory illnesses.

Cypress is a powerful vasoconstrictor and diuretic and when massaged into the skin, it tightens blood vessels. It is often included in topical medicinals for the treatment of varicose veins and hemorrhoids.

Cypress is another herb that recommended to be avoided by pregnant women.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

Fennel is a powerful diuretic and another herb to be avoided in pregnancy. The seeds of this herb contain volatile oils and high concentrations of natural chemicals such as anethole, fenchone, bergaptene, sterols and flavonoids.

The primary use of fennel is for relief of bloating and colic, as a diuretic and an anti-inflammatory. Its strong diuretic, astringent and purifying properties make Fennel essential oil excellent for stimulating circulation, reducing water retention, firming skin and reducing toxic accumulations from the skin.

Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi)

Grapefruit is a highly stimulating, toning, diuretic herb. The essential oil of Grapefruit peel can help combat fatigue and muscle stiffness while it stimulates the lymphatic system. It is a favorable ingredient for depurative remedies to help the body disperse of toxic accumulations, clear congestion and firm skin tissue.

Juniper Energizing Body Rub is a synergistic blend of all of the above herbs, along with Calendula (antiseptic), Chamomile (anti-inflammatory), Rosebay Willowherb (anti-irritant), Jojoba (moisturizing), Rosehip (healing), Lavender (soothing, relaxing), Sea Buckthorn Berry (vitamin-rich antioxidant) and Vitamin E (antioxidant). Each ingredient in this potent massage oil is chosen specifically for its healing and nourishing properties on the skin.

As above, the active ingredients in this product are powerful stimulants and, as such, should be avoided by pregnant women.

For more information, or to purchase, check out Juniper Energizing Body Rub at MyAlchemilla.com.

Allergens in Skin Care

2009-07-23T04:37:00Z

Most people can use the majority of skin care products without any problems, however there is still a small percentage of individuals who suffer from irritation and/or allergic dermatitis without knowing what it is that is causing their symptoms.

Skin irritation is normally characterized by some form of burning, itching, stinging and/or redness soon after product application. For some highly sensitive individuals, the area may develop an allergic, or contact dermatitis.

Are Natural Skin Care Products Less Likely to Cause Irritation?

It is important to understand that because a skin care product is considered natural or organic, it is not necessary free of allergens by default.

The ability for any skin care product to cause an allergic reaction, natural, organic or not, is completely dependent upon what is in the product and who is using it on their skin.

What are the Main Allergens in Skin Care?

As any dermatologist will confirm, and many individuals with sensitive skin probably already know, the two major categories of allergens found in skin care products are fragrances and preservatives.

Fragrances

According to countless clinical studies, fragrances are the most frequent skin allergens. As many as 3000 different fragrance molecules are available to perfumers and skin care manufacturers, and at least 100 of these are serious allergens*.

Unfortunately for the consumer, the individual chemicals used to make up a fragrance are not legally required to be disclosed on a product label by the manufacturer, which means any of the 3000 available could be used. Obviously, this makes it extremely difficult for a sensitive-skin individual to know what they are putting on their skin if the ingredient label includes 'fragrance' as a component of the product.

To complicate matters further, unscented products may in fact contain fragrance chemicals that are not labeled as 'fragrance'.

The Most Frequent Allergen in Skin Care is an Essential Oil!

Surprisingly to many, the most frequent allergen found in cosmetics is not a synthetic fragrance, but a botanical known as Balsam of Peru (or Peru Balsam).

Balsam of Peru is an essential oil made from the resin of the Central American Myroxylon pereirae (aka M. balsamum) tree. The pleasant vanilla-like aroma of Balsam of Peru comes mainly from ingredients known as cinnamein, cinnamic acid and vanillin. Its other ingredients, also known to be strong allergens, are: benzoic acid, benzyl acetate, cinnamic alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, eugenol, cinnamic aldehyde and methylcinnamate.

Knowing that Balsam of Peru is such a high risk allergen, one might question why a company (especially a natural product manufacturer) would use it in their products. The reasons are simple: In addition to its highly pleasant aroma, Balsam of Peru is a strong antibacterial and antifungal, making it very attractive to manufacturers who wish to claim a 'no preservative' motto.

How Can I Know if Balsam of Peru is in My Product?

This is the dilemma. Hopefully the product manufacturer will appropriately disclose this ingredient on their product packaging (it should look similar to this: Myroxylon pereirae (Balsam of Peru) essential oil or, possibly, Myroxylon balsam (Peru Balsam) extract).

Unfortunately, in most cases you will need to be a detective if you want to avoid this ingredient, particularly if the company chooses not to disclose their fragrance components. If an ingredient label includes 'Fragrance' and also includes one of the above highlighted chemicals (eugenol etc.), you will need to contact the manufacturer directly and ask them directly if Balsam of Peru is in the product. (Be prepared: It may be difficult to get a straight answer and most customer service operators will not be informed.)

The next most common allergen is a fragrance mix. As stated, these can be a combination of any of 3000 different molecules, many of which are serious skin allergens. Any skin care product label that includes "Fragrance" as an ingredient is allowed to contain any fragrance mix, including those with labels that state their fragrance comes from essential oils.

Independent laboratory testing has shown us that even if an ingredient list includes "Fragrance (from essential oil)" and the company markets "no synthetic fragrances", this has not always truthful labelling. In addition, sometimes "fragrance (from essential oils)" can mean the fragrance is not necessarily from pure, synergistically active (and potentially safer) whole essential oils, but that it is from compounds (usually the most fragrant) which have been isolated and extracted out of an essential oil.

Preservatives

Preservatives are essential for maintaining a product's freshness, however most can be irritating if used in too high concentrations and some, regardless of concentration, are a major cause of irritation and contact dermatitis - the most prevalent being two formaldehyde releasers known as quaternium-15 and imidazolidinyl urea.

Unfortunately preservatives cannot be avoided if a product is to remain fresh and safe for a consumer, so for individuals with reactive skin, it can be a hit-and-miss situation until they figure out if a preservative is what is causing problems for their skin and duly avoid it.

Summary of the Most Frequent Allergens

According to the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and various dermatologic literature, some of the most frequent allergens in cosmetics (skin and hair care) are as follows (the figure in parenthesis notes the % of patients who had an irritation reaction):

Balsam of Peru (Myroxylon pereirae) (12.3%)

Fragrance Mix (11.7%)

Formaldehyde (9.3%)

Quarternium-15 (9.0%)

Imidazolidinyl urea (2.5%)

Lanolin alcohol (2.4%)

DMDM hydantoin (1.9%)

Methyl methacrylate (1.3%)

Parabens (1.0%)

How to Protect Skin from Irritation

If you're highly sensitive, it's not always simple, but there are some basic steps that can be taken to lessen the chance of an allergic reaction to cosmetics.

First, check the ingredient label thoroughly and arm yourself with as much information as you can about ingredients that can be problematic.

Second, run a patch test. This involves applying the product to the inner elbow, leaving in place for 24 hours and assessing whether there has been irritation or a reaction in that time. For the extremely sensitive, following up this standard patch test by applying a small amount of the product to the lower cheek before the rest of the face, would also be advisable. If no reaction occurs in either case, it is probably an okay product for your skin.

And third, for those who are having difficulty with many products but cannot pin-point what exactly is causing the problem, a dermatologist who specializes in skin allergies can perform a specialized skin allergy test to help figure it out. The is fairly straight-forward and in a short time one can know exactly what they must avoid to protect their skin from irritation.

Remember, signs of irritation include burning, itching, stinging and/or redness. If any of these symptoms occur, stop using the product immediately.

Sources:
American Journal Cl. Dermatology, 2003
Rook et al, 2004, Blackwell Publishing, "Rook's Textbook of Dermatology"
Marks et al, 2003, American Journal of Contact Dermatitis

For sensitive skin types, try Alchemilla's Rosebay Willowherb Cream or Calendula Cream. Both are fragrance-free moisturizers containing a low percentage of preservatives that do not commonly cause irritation.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

Aromatherapy – What is it? How Does it Work?

2009-06-16T00:00:00Z

Many folks use aromatherapy quite regularly, and there are few massage therapists who can say they never incorporate some form of this delightful healing art into their treatment sessions.

However, the information in this post is directed mainly toward those who do not fully understand, or have yet to experience the true pleasure of this wonderful aromatic healing art - or those who think they have by using one of those floral room fresheners so frequently advertized. We have also included a small amount of essential oil safety information.

What is Aromatherapy?

Aromatherapy is considered the most potent form of herbal medicine. It is an holistic complimentary health care modality - a healing art that uses highly concentrated natural plant extracts (essential oils), which are compounds that are obtained through either steam distillation or cold expression of flowers, leaves, seeds, berries, barks or citrus rinds.

Essential oils are highly aromatic and can consist of literally hundreds of individual components including hormones, pheromones, cell regenerating agents, antivirals and antibiotics.

Although their purpose in nature is not yet fully understood, essential oils are often likened to the 'blood' of the plant and form an integral part of its immune system.

The therapeutic effect an essential oil depends upon the chemical make-up of the plant and is known as aromatherapy. The therapeutic value of an oil obtained from a plant that has been sprayed with chemical pesticides and herbicides will be quite altered, and possibly destroyed, in comparison to a plant that has been grown using organic methods.

In an aromatherapy treatment, essential oils are added to a carrier (or base) oil and massaged into the skin, or they can be added to warm bath water, inhaled directly or through vaporization, or added to plant poultices. They may also be added to skin care to impart healing and balancing qualities to the treatment.

Aromatherapy can bring about many positive and sometimes profound physical, spiritual and emotional changes.

Important Note: A true aromatherapy experience is not achieved through the use of synthetic fragrances such as those found in almost all commercial room fresheners (whether fragrance is used alone or in combination with an essential oil) or synthetically fragranced cosmetics or perfumes.

How Does Aromatherapy Work?

Put very simply, the nasal cavity contains olfactory nerves that are sensitive to airborne molecules which get stuck on the mucous membrane. These olfactory nerves are directly connected to the limbic system (emotional center) of the brain.

The limbic system is the part of our brain that stores all of our sensory experiences such as memories and emotions. It is located within the hypothalamus, which controls the release of hormones from the pituitary gland and the autonomic (involuntary) nervous system.

In aromatherapy, when a scent is encountered, the limbic system determines the action the hypothalamus will take. Depending on the scent (the molecules encountered), the hypothalamus may instruct the pituitary gland to release hormones - for example 'feel-good' chemicals such as serotonin and endorphins - and trigger changes to body temperature, heart rate, the digestive system or stress levels.

Although it has yet to be scientifically validated, it is also believed that some essential oil molecules can also penetrate the skin, having a profound either an effect on either the skin itself, or on organs within the body. For example, it is believed that Juniper essential oil can cause uterine contractions (which is why one would avoid this particular essential oil during pregnancy).

But regardless of the scientific basis about how and why aromatherapy works, who can deny that wonderfully relaxing and uplifting effect of true lavender or rose geranium?!

Essential Oil Safety

Essential oils are extremely concentrated and in most cases too strong to be applied undiluted to the skin. They should be handled and used with great care and their power should never be underestimated.

Never take essential oils internally unless instructed to do so by a health care practitioner. A carrier oil should be employed in aromatherapy as a means of diluting essential oils for massage and for skin or facial oil blends. Avoid contact with eyes and sensitive areas. Certain essential oils should be avoided in specific health conditions whilst others will be wonderfully appropriate - be sure to research contraindications of each, especially if you have a health concern.

Essential oils are volatile - they should be stored in a cool place away from sunlight in a dark, tightly closed bottle with a stopper cap to prevent evaporation. If in doubt, always consult an aromatherapy professional before using.

Most Popular Essential Oils

Some of the most popular essential oils include:

Lavender
Rose Geranium
Grapefruit
Clary Sage
Peppermint

or visit our website for a full list of Alchemilla Organic Aromatherapy Essential Oils.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

Facial Toners: Are they Really Necessary?

2009-06-06T00:00:00Z

A common misconception when it comes to taking care of one's skin is that a Facial Toner is unimportant. In fact, facial toning is the most often neglected beauty step. Why? Because many believe that a cleanser is all that is necessary for truly clean skin!

The fact is, many common skin problems are caused by a lack of thorough cleansing and dehydration, yet the quick and simple act of regular toning can help remedy both of these situations.

Many estheticians will tell you that toning is one of the most important steps in any skin care regimen, and they are right. Regular toning promotes optimal skin function, hence a beautiful complexion, by providing benefits such as the following:

Removes traces of cleanser, make-up, excess oil and chemicals from tap water.

Supports skin's return to its natural acidic pH.
The skin's slightly acidic pH ("acid mantle") protects against the actions of bacteria and micro-organisms living in the external environment, yet it can be affected by various factors including, for example, alkaline products (most cleansers), cosmetics products, poor nutrition and excessive perspiration.

Hydrates and reduces oil output (except if product is alcohol-based).
Adequately hydrated skin aids proper cell function and can help reduce oil production. When skin is lacking in hydration (eg. after cleansing and wiping dry or when exposed to dry weather or controlled climates), sebaceous glands respond by pumping out more oil. Applying a toner that contains a humectant (water-binding agent) such as glycerin, effectively re-hydrates skin and can help tremendously in reducing this oil output. (Note that toners containing alcohol should be avoided. Alcohol strips the skin of hydration and moisture, making oily conditions worse in the long run.)

Promotes smaller looking pores.
Although pores cannot be 'closed' by a toner (another common misconception), a thorough cleansing process that includes a toner will help remove ingrained debris from pores, effectively decreasing the size and appearance of pores.

Cools, refreshes and soothes skin.
Facial toners and aromatic floral waters are delightfully refreshing post-workout, or on a dry day. In addition, anti-irritant herbal ingredients can also help soothe reactive skin conditions.

Aids and extends application of serum and moisturizer products.
Applying serum or moisturizer to toner-dampened skin makes for smoother application. In addition, it dilutes and reduces the actual amount of product needed to cover the entire area.

Helps set make-up (especially mineral make-up).
A facial toner or aromatic floral water, applied as a mist after mineral make-up application, can perfectly set the look of mineral make-up by giving it a moist, dewy finish without oiliness.

How and When Should I Apply a Facial Toner?

Tone the skin, at least twice per day, after all cleansing treatments (eg. cleanser, mask and/or exfoliant) and before the application of serum, treatment oil or moisturizer.

As part of a cleansing ritual, apply facial toner with a soft cotton pad. Gently wipe the soaked cotton pad over the skin's surface. At other times (eg. for setting make-up or refreshing the skin throughout the day) use a mist sprayer. If you're on the go, try to keep a smaller size floral water in your purse or briefcase.

What Should I Use?

Something as natural and organic as possible! If there are too many ingredients to count and/or you don't recognize at least half of the ingredients, it's probably best to avoid the product! Try Alchemilla's range of all natural toners and floral waters, made with pure, organic ingredients: Clarifying Facial Toner or any of our Aromatic Floral Waters (Rose, Neroli, Rosewood or Lavender). Alchemilla's Aromatic Floral Waters are also available in a 1oz purse/gym bag size, which is perfect for on-the-go spritzing.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

Facial Exfoliants - Why Exfoliate? What to Use and What to Avoid.

2009-04-01T04:46:00Z

About Exfoliating...

We do many things to our skin with a huge number of skin care products, some that can have wonderfully rejuvenating effects, others that can cause serious irritation, and those that, well, simply don't cut the bill (we've all bought them)!

No matter what our skin care routine or the brand/s we choose to use, there is one product that simply cannot be overlooked when it comes to great skin that is smooth and healthy, with an enlivened, translucent glow...and that is an effective facial exfoliant!

Why Exfoliate?

Exfoliating is an essential step toward healthy skin.

Every skin type, whether it is dry, oily, combination, mature or perfectly functioning, will greatly benefit from regular exfoliation. It leads to an immediately brighter, smoother complexion that literally glows with freshness and vitality.

How Does an Exfoliant Work?

An exfoliant breaks down and removes old keratinized skin cells that naturally build up on the skin's surface. Removing these cells effectively reveals the younger, fresher, plumper, healthier looking skin cells underneath.

In addition, as we age, skin cell regeneration slows down significantly. A facial exfoliant encourages faster cell turnover, meaning that these newer, younger looking cells reach the surface sooner.

As an added bonus, exfoliating helps prevent clogging of pores (and resultant breakouts) while it prepares the skin to better absorb, and make more effective, a serum and/or moisturizer treatment that follows.

What to Use

The active constituent of a facial exfoliant can be either mechanical or chemical in nature.

Mechanical exfoliants are essentially known as "scrubs", whereas chemical exfoliants come in the form of enzyme masks, fruit peels (ie. AHA or alpha-hydroxy acid or BHA (beta-hydroxy acid), and chemical peels (extreme exfoliation that is performed by a physician usually under anasthetic).

The key to deciding which exfoliant is right for you is to make sure it is the least irritating to your skin while being the most effective at producing the optimum results you desire.

For at-home exfoliating the face and neck we recommend a gentle mechanical, natural facial exfoliant. For your regular professional facial treatments, we recommend a natural enzyme mask (speak to your facialist about Alchemilla's Fruit Enzyme Exfoliating Mask).

What to Avoid

For the face and neck, we strongly suggest avoiding any exfoliant that contains gritty abrasives that are not uniform in shape, such as those made with nuts, seeds, nut shells or the like. These gritty exfoliants are not ideal for the thin, sensitive skin in this region and can literally cause micro-lesions (microscopic cuts) to the skin's surface. These micro-lesions can lead to further skin issues!

It is currently also our strong recommendation to avoid AHAs. There is ongoing concern by the FDA over the short- and long-term effects of AHA skin treatments. Firstly, irritation potential from AHAs is extremely high and, secondly, AHA products must include a "sunburn alert" due to their causing severe sensitivity to the sun’s ultra violet rays, potentially leading to an increased risk of skin cancer. FDA studies are in progress regarding the deterimental effects of long term use of AHA treatments. Until the findings are absolute and conclusive, it is best to avoid these treatments.

If an over-the-counter (OTC) exfoliant (or any OTC skin care product for that matter) TINGLES, FEELS WARM, ITCHES, BURNS or CAUSES REDNESS it is, without question, irritating your skin (regardless of how the product is marketed or what the department store assistant says). This is not good for the short- or long-term health and beauty of your skin!

How to Exfoliate

With most mechanical exfoliants, one simply applies a small amount of the chosen product to dampened skin and rolls the fingertips over the skin in circular motions, spreading and gently rubbing the exfoliant evenly over the skin's surface.

30 seconds to 1 minute should be ample time to cover the entire face and neck. One may wish to concentrate a little more on acne and blackhead-prone areas such as the t-zone, however dry skin areas should be given adequate attention to effectively remove the dull, flaky skin cells and allow more moisture-filled, moisture absorbing cells to come to the surface.

If time is a factor, most mechanical exfoliating treatments can be easily carried out whilst you shower!

As they are often quite acidic, fruit enzyme peels are best performed by a qualified esthetician who can assess and prepare your skin correctly for the treatment, as well as quickly identify any signs of irritation and act accordingly. There are some over-the-counter options however, in our opinion, these are probably not concentrated enough in enzymes to have any marked effect.

Generally enzyme based exfoliants are applied to cleansed skin, then, rather than scrubbing, left in place for a set period of time and finally rinsed off. As enzyme masks can be on the acidic side, they are sometimes followed with a neutralizing lotion.

How Often Should I Exfoliate?

Don't over-do it.

The frequency of exfoliating treatments really depends on preference, however for optimal skin condition, it should be at least once per week and not more than once every second day. Oily or less sensitive skin types can exfoliate every second day. Sensitive skin types should generally limit treatments to once, maybe twice per week.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

What ’s Your Skin Type?

2009-03-03T00:00:00Z

What's Your Skin Type?

According to Dr Leslie Bauhmann, Dermatologist at the University of Miami, 80% of people incorrectly assess their skin type. In fact, one study has shown that most people underestimate how oily their skin really is and this misunderstanding leads to the use of inappropriate moisturizers, making their skin even more oily and leading to enlarged, congested pores and acne problems.

For the healthiest skin possible, one must be clear on exactly what type of skin one has so that it can be cared for with the most appropriate skin care products. The best way to accurately determine what type of skin you have is to seek the assistance of a qualified facialist (see our list of Retailers for an Alchemilla facialist) or a medical Dermatologist. If neither service is currently available to you, a self-diagnosis may be possible, particularly if you are very aware of how your skin behaves and feels most of the time.

There are a number of identifying characteristics particular to each skin type. The most common and prevalent skin types are listed below, with a link to Alchemilla's natural skin care treatment plan for that skin type:

Normal Skin

Normal skin is most commonly seen in children, however there are a rare few, extremely fortunate adults who can classify their skin as normal. Normal skin is usually characterized by:

- Little to no breakouts;
- Healthy, dewy appearance;
- Small pores and a smooth, firm texture;
- Never feels either too oily or too dry;
- Has a natural resilience to common problems like broken capillaries, spots or redness.

Normal skin can change in relation to age, the seasons or hormonal factors, so it is important to maintain good health and follow an adequate daily skin care regimen using gentle, natural products. Normal Skin Treatment Plan >

Dry Skin

Dry skin has an inability to retain adequate moisture content in its cells. It is usually characterized by:

- A feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after bathing or swimming;
- Dull, dehydrated appearance that lacks plumpness;
- Feels rough and may itch;
- Flaking or scaling may be present;
- Tends to wrinkle easily and fine lines are prevalent.

Dry skin results from disruption to the skin's intercellular lipid structure - a group of vital substances that bond skin cells together to form a protective barrier, preserve skin's moisture content and give skin it's smooth, soft texture. Dry Skin Treatment Plan >

Oily Skin

Oily skin is caused by an excess in the production of sebum in the skin. Although oily skin is most common in early teens and young adults, certain people may battle continually with this skin condition. Common characteristics of oily skin are:

- Skin appears thicker than other skin types;
- Over-active sebaceous glands which cause a shiny appearance;
- Larger, visible pores;
- A tendency towards blemishes and breakouts.

Oily skin may actually be caused by an inefficient moisturizer, or no moisturizer at all. It can also be exacerbated by heavy moisturizers. Hydrating serums or light moisturizing lotions are appropriate and necessary to help maintain the balance of sebum in oily skin. Oily Skin Treatment Plan >

Combination Skin

Combination skin has varying patches of oily and dry or normal skin over the face. Common characteristics of combination skin are:

- Oiliness and possibly blackheads on the T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin);
- Normal to dry skin on the cheeks and around the eyes;

It is important to treat the differing areas of combination skin separately, especially when applying masks. Certain pure essential oils, such as Geranium and Rosewood, have sebum-balancing properties and, when used correctly, are an excellent choice for combination skin types. Combination Skin Treatment Plan >

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is reactive when it comes into contact with many different external and internal stimuli. Although all skin types can be reactive, sensitive skin is commonly characterized by:

- A thin, translucent appearance;
- Skin wrinkles prematurely;
- Skin feels tight after washing;
- Dry, flaky patches and broken capillaries are sometimes present.

A sensitive skin condition can be an inherited trait, or it can be a result of weather conditions, hormonal changes, sun exposure or the skin care products you are using. Sensitive Skin Treatment Plan >

Most skin types are a combination of more than one of the above. Correct skin diagnosis and gentle, natural skin care products are very important steps toward affecting the outcome of your regular skin care regimen.

This month's $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate Sweepstakes!

As always, our intention is to educate our readers and offer straight forward information about what is going on with your skin and how best to take care of it...but now we want to hear from you!

Read the skin type characteristics above to find your best match, then tell us what yours is! When you enter your comment in this blog you will be automatically entered into our March sweepstakes for a $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate!

The best description of my skin type is:

1. Normal
2. Dry
3. Oily
4. Combination
5. Sensitive
6. A combination of _______ and ________

(Feel free to elaborate).

Instructions and Entry Conditions

Each email address can have up to 2 entries, based on the following:

For 1 entry: Enter your answer to our question in the Comments section of this article. If you cannot decide on one answer, list each of your choices in order of preference.

For 1 additional entry: Visit our website at http://www.myalchemilla.com and tell us in the Comment section, which Alchemilla Ultra-Pure Skin Care product you would most like to try.

Conditions of Entry:

A valid email address is required to participate (your email address will not be visible to, or shared with, others). All comments are monitored before being published. All contributions will receive a chance to win, however we reserve the right to publish only those comments that we deem appropriate for Alchemilla’s blog. Limit of 2 entries per email address based on the above rules. Official close is 11.00am PT on March 31, 2009. The winner will be selected using a random number generator, and notified soon thereafter. Winner's coupon must be redeemed within 60 days of coupon post date. Good luck and check back each month in 2009 for a new opportunity to win!

Aromatherapy in Skin Care

2009-02-06T00:00:00Z

Aromatherapy in Skin Care?

In this day and age almost all of us are short on time, and relaxation is a thing of the past for many. Multi-tasking is pretty normal, especially if, like me, you're a working mom! Doesn't it make sense then, to use skin care products that contain beneficial aromatics - what better way is there to pamper your body, mind and spirit while carrying out your daily skin care routine?!

Now, as an organic skin care manufacturer, it would be all well and good to simply throw in a pretty scent at the end of the batch, and certainly way better if its source is natural, as with aromatherapy oils, however even with a natural approach one must be extremely careful about which essential oils are going to be rubbed onto the face.

Yes, essential oils can be extremely beneficial in terms of their activity on the skin, as well as their ability to induce an overall sense of well-being, however many, in fact most essential oils (even chamomile or lavender essential oil for the extremely sensitive) can be irritating to skin, especially those with sensitive skin types. To the untrained, it is difficult to know which essential oils are okay for the skin and which are to be avoided at all costs. Certainly one doesn't want to have to be a licensed aromatherapist to be able to enjoy all the wonderful benefits aromatherapy has to offer!

There are countless wonderful organic aromatherapy skin care products on the market today, however one must be acutely aware that there are many products that contain strong skin irritants. The potential for such irritation is not likely going to be advertised, especially if the irritation is not outwardly apparent (eg. with Peppermint*), or if the essential oil in question is not that familiar to even the most informed customers (eg. Peru Balsam*).

*Peppermint essential oil actually does little but trigger a deep inflammation reaction, tricking the user into believing their skin is being 'soothed'. Peru Balsam, as incredibly gorgeous as it smells, is known to be a strong skin irritant.

Happily, in many cases, and as with all Alchemilla skin care products, the right essential oil is used at the correct percentage and in the best combination so that the benefits to the body and mind far outweigh any risk of irritation.

However, for those who are very unfamiliar about essential oils in skin care, the following are some (and this is definitely not a complete list) of the most irritating essential oils for the skin: Cinnamon, Citronella, Clove, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lemon Balm (Balm Mint), Tolu Balsam (Peru Balsam), Peppermint, Pine, Thyme. The irritation risk from this small list of essential oils is very high, and they should not be included in facial skin care, preferably not in body care in most instances, and certainly not in sensitive skin care. There are many other irritating oils so, if in doubt, always test the product first - and be sure there is a satisfactory product return policy!

Synthetic Fragrances - Not a Good Alternative to Essential Oils

Synthetic fragrances are a cheap, toxic trick used to bump up corporate revenue and profits. Essential oils are an expensive, but perfect alternative to synthetic fragrancing and there is really no reason why every skin care manufacturer cannot formulate their products with essential oils - they're both beautiful and beneficial to the skin.  Also, if a natural skin care company suggests they care about our wellbeing yet opt to use synthetic fragrances in their products, can we trust they really do care about anything other than the bottom line?

Also, beware many mainstream products branded as 'aromatherapy' that are actually scented with (or mostly with) synthetic fragrance. These contain so little to no natural essential oil that the true scent of the plant or flower is not at all detectable.   Marketing synthetically fragranced products as 'aromatherapy' is simply shameful and, at best, confusing to consumers who are none the wiser.  At worse, these products won't do much more than infuse your olfactory system with a dose of toxic chemicals!

Another 'sensory' trick some companies use to fragrance their products, is to create and use replicants of natural fragrances in their products.  Unfortunately, these replicants are still synthetic, laboratory-made fragrances. They consist of chemical constituents made to look and smell identical to those found in nature. Their benefits no doubt include: 1) One can impart the scent of, say, musk in a product which cannot be done from nature; 2) Nature can be 'improved' upon (that is, the individual components might be the same as found in nature, but the percentages of each are artificially modified to increase the more attractive aromatic molecules within the formula); and/or 3) The fragrance can be standardized and made consistent in every batch.

Unfortunately, fragrance replicants are still cheap, not at all natural and, having been artificially manufactured, cannot possibly contain life force nor the elements of nature that may not yet have even been observed within the limits of our laboratory instruments.

In Summary...

We should not expect that every essential oil is going to be a skin irritant just because it is an essential oil, but we should have a healthy awareness. We should definitely try to gain an understanding of which essential oils are most likely to be irritating and therefore best to avoid, and we should get to know our own skin well enough to know if it is likely to be irritated by, and from which, essential oils.

As I am always saying, avoid synthetic fragrances. They do not belong on your skin! If you can't live without a certain perfume, spray it on your clothes, not your body. If your skin care company formulates with synthetic fragrances, don't use it (it is sometimes difficult to know because they may include 'fragrance' on their ingredient list as well as 'essential oil' and, unfortunately, including both items on an ingredient list does not mean there are ONLY essential oils in the product - you're going to need to ask the manufacturer directly and hope for an honest answer. (NB: Species preservation is not a good enough explanation!: It was once explained to me by a natural skin care manufacturer that the reason they use synthetic rose fragrance is for species preservation. As we all know, Rose is not an endangered species, but it was an amusing (and amazing) excuse.) If a company is using a synthetic or 'nature identical' fragrance, it is because of the reasons explained above.

If essential oils are not right for your skin, resist the temptation to use them. There are great unscented alternatives out there. For example, Rosebay Willowherb Cream and Calendula Cream are both wonderful, essential oil-free, moisturizing creams from Alchemilla.

Being sensitive to essential oils also doesn't mean you can't use them for other wonderful aromatherapy treatments, or scenting and green cleaning your home! Check our previous blog entry for "7 Ways to Use Essential Oils when Green Cleaning your Home"!

Now, the moment you've been waiting for...
This month's $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate Sweepstakes!

We have provided lots of food for thought in this blog. As always, our intention is to educate our readers and hopefully offer fairly simple explanations behind what is going on in the natural skin care industry so that you might be better informed next time you are looking for a natural or organic skin care product.

Right now though, we want to hear from you! Answer this simple question and be automatically entered into February's sweepstakes for a $100 MyAlchemilla.com Gift Certificate:

My favorite essential oil is:

1. Rose
2. Lavender
3. Jasmine
4. Geranium
5. Ylang Ylang
6. Patchouli
7. Neroli
8. Sandalwood
9. Bergamot
10. Rosemary

(Feel free to also include your comments, or other essential oils that aren't on the list).

Instructions and Entry Conditions

Enter your answer in the Comments section of this article. If you cannot decide on one answer, list each of your choices in order of preference.

A valid email address is required to participate (your email address will not be visible to, or shared with, others). All comments are monitored before being published. All contributors will receive a chance to win, however we reserve the right to publish only those comments that we deem appropriate for Alchemilla’s blog. Limit of 1 entry per email address. Official close is 4.00pm PT on February 27, 2009 and the winner will be selected using a random number generator, and notified soon thereafter. Winner's coupon must be redeemed within 60 days of receipt. Good luck and check back every month for a new opportunity to win!

To Preserve or Not To Preserve …

2009-01-03T00:00:00Z

Preservatives - Do we Really Need Them?

The simple answer is, yes. A broad spectrum preservative system is essential to ensuring any skin care product is able to remain fresh on a shelf for even a short period of time.

Preservatives keep a product safe from microbial contamination (bacteria, mold, fungus) and are even more important in natural skin care products, where the level of plant-based ingredients and hence, microbial growth potential, are often higher than that of more synthetically created products.

Aren't Preservatives Hazardous to Health?

While there are concerns around some preservatives, and while it is true that there can be a slight risk of irritation to more sensitive skin types from these types of ingredients, health risks of approved preservatives have not, as yet, been established much beyond speculation.

In fact, scientists consider the risk to skin and eyes from a contaminated product to be much greater than that of a product containing an approved preservative.

At Alchemilla, we depend on various sources for our ingredient information, including of course the manufacturer, as well as independent organizations, the FDA and cosmetics safety review board.

The amount of preservative in a skin care product is usually exceptionally minute in comparison to the rest of the ingredients. For example, when present in any Alchemilla organic skin care product, the preservative component is often less than 0.8% of a formulation - obviously miniscule.

Manuka Essential Oil - Organic Aromatherapy from New Zealand

2008-12-26T00:00:00Z

Organic Manuka Essential Oil (from the Leptospermum scoparium tree species of New Zealand) is one of nature's greatest gifts for healing a plethora of skin problems such as fungal infections (athlete's foot, tinea, ringworm, nail fungal problems), scalp itchiness, rashes, dandruff, acne, insect bites and stings and other common skin conditions.

Manuka has always been an important medicinal plant to the indigenous New Zealand folk (the Maori people). It was also a very important plant to early European settlers in New Zealand, who depended upon traditional Maori medicine to treat their own health concerns.

Among their many uses for Manuka tree, the Maori boil fresh leaves in water and inhale its vapors to help treat respiratory illnesses, sinus infections and allergies. They also applied a poultice of crushed leaves to skin diseases and wounds to enhance healing and prevent infection. For the treatment of dysentary, young shoots were consumed, and a warm liquid infusion from its bark and leaves was massaged into rheumatic joints and bad backs.

As is common for almost all traditional and alternative medicines however, modern science has only in the past decade or so, begun to positively validate and become excited about the potent healing properties of Manuka.

Scientific testing of pure, organic grade Manuka essential oil has shown it to be high (up to 30%) in concentrations of potent anti-microbial constituents - the reason for its unusually high anti-microbial properties. It has in fact tested active against a broad range of micro-organisms that cause infections of the skin - some quite serious and others common like tinea and "Athlete's Foot" (in fact, some strains of Manuka essential oil have shown anti-fungal activity to be 5 times greater than Australian Tea Tree). In addition, it has tested 15 times stronger against Staphylococcus and Streptococcus bacteria, including antibiotic-resistant strains.

Some common uses for Manuka Essential Oil include:

Fungal infections (ringworm, tinea, nail infections) - Apply 3-4 drops of undiluted organic Manuka essential oil to affected area with a cotton tip or cotton pad twice daily. Continue to apply one week after symptoms have cleared.

Dandruff and itching scalp - Pour a normal amount of shampoo into palm of the hand, then mix in 5-10 drops of Manuka essential oil and apply, leaving on scalp for 5 minutes before rinsing.

Acne - Wash skin daily with a gentle cleansing agent that contains Manuka essential oil (try Alchemilla Foaming Facial Cleansing Gel). Apply 2-3 drops of undiluted Manuka essential oil with a cotton tip as a spot treatment.

Athlete's Foot - Apply 4-5 drops of undiluted Manuka essential oil to affected area with a cotton pad twice daily. Continue to apply one week after visible symptoms have cleared.

Scratches and Abrasions - Apply 4-5 drops of undiluted Manuka oil to affected area with a cotton pad to increase healing time and prevent infection.

Insect Bites and Stings - Apply 3-4 drops of undiluted organic Manuka oil to affected area with a cotton tip or cotton pad to relieve itching and reduce inflammation.

The above is just a guide based on our favorite uses for organic Manuka essential oil.

As with most Essential Oils, there are some contraindications for Manuka and it is wise to always consult a physician or certified aromatherapy professional if in any doubt. Manuka essential oil should be avoided in pregnancy and lacation due to spasmolytic (muscle-relaxant) activity.

Copyright © 2006-2011 MyAlchemilla.com.

Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

2008-12-22T00:00:00Z

Calendula officinalis ("Pot Marigold") is an aromatic annual plant native to northern mediterranean regions. Its golden flowers are a favorite among herbalists.

[caption id="attachment_123" align="alignright" width="199" caption="Orange Calendula Flowers"][/caption]

Calendula's history includes its use in ancient Greece and Rome and in early Indian and Arabic cultures as a medicinal, culinary and cosmetic herb, a dye for fabrics and, once known as "poor man's saffron", was a less expensive saffron substitute used to color rice. "Some use it to make theyr here yelow ... not being content with the colour..." W. Turner 1551.

Calendula was once believed to be an effective cure for the plague in the 17th century and more commonly as a remedy for depression - in some cases the physician would suggest simply gazing at Calendula's cheerful blossoms to help raise the spirits! (Perhaps this was an early sign of man's ability to benefit from the unseen "essence" of a flower over and above just its physical medicinal value?)

The genus "Calendula" comes from Latin "kalendae", meaning "first day of the month". It is thought that this is because it seemed to always be found in flower at every new moon. "Officinalis" is part of the botanical name used to describe an herbal medicine used at one time or another by practitioners. One of Calendula's common names: "Marigold", refers (as it seems with so many ancient herbs) to its link with the Virgin Mary.

[caption id="attachment_130" align="alignleft" width="240" caption="Dried Calendula Petals"][/caption]

Calendula has been long used in topical skin remedies. It is antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and can help stop bleeding and heal irritated or damaged skin tissue and is useful externally for eczema skin conditions, "pink eye" (or conjunctivitis), ringworm, athlete's foot, diaper rash and "cradle cap".

The bright orange or yellow flower heads of Calendula are plucked in the early morning, dried and used in oil macerations, or used fresh in an aqueous infusion. Essential oil can also be extracted from its fresh flowers and in recent studies has proven to be a broad spectrum anti-fungal.

The biochemical constituents of Calendula include antioxidants (carotenoids, lutein, lycopenes, flavonoids), mucilage, steroidal compounds, resin and a bitter principle, and its specific healing properties make it an important and useful ingredient in Alchemilla's herbal topical "Calendula Cream" and many of our organic skin care preparations. Specific topical benefits include:

Antifungal - can prevent or treat fungal infections on the skin;
Antioxidant - neutralizes free radicals;
Antiseptic - can prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin;
Astringent - produces a constricting effect (pore tightening);
Vulnerary - encourages the healing of wounds by promoting cell growth and repair.

Calendula can help soothe pain, irritation and promote healing of damaged skin tissue such as that in wounds or burns. It is said that a poultice of calendula petals can effectively treat shingles or varicose ulcers and that one or two drops of calendula infused oil placed in the ear can cure an earache.

Alchemilla products containing Calendula officinalis:

Face Care
- Clarifying Facial Toner
- Deep Clean Purifying Masque
- Exfoliating Face Wash Cream
- Eye Contour Cream
- Healing Lip Balm
- Rehydrating Day Care Cream
- Rehydrating Day Care Lotion
- Rehydrating Essence - Rose

Body Care
- Aromatic Body Oil - Bergamot
- Aromatic Body Oil - Lavender
- Aromatic Body Oil - Geranium
- Aromatic Pregnancy Belly Rub

Herbal Care
- Calendula Cream

References:

P. Oddy, The Herb Society's Complete Medicinal Herbal, 1993 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London, England.

M. Castleman, The Healing Herbs, 1991 Bookman Press, Melbourne Australia.

L. Bauman, "Cosmeceutical critique: Calendula. (Dermatologic Therapy)", Skin and Allergy News, Vol.34 Issue 10 p 17, Oct 2003."

"Antifungal activity of the essential oil from Calendula officinalis L. (asteraceae) growing in Brazil", Brazilian Journal of Microbiology, Vol.39 No.1 Jan/Mar 2008.

M. Tierra, The Way of Herbs, 1998 Simon & Schuster Inc., New York, USA.