Today we received an email from a soap maker who suggested we essentially right-off the term "natural" as irrelevant and useless, as the prime strategy for promoting greater sales of their organic soaps.

I thought: "Holy cow!  Did I read that right?"  I mean, sure, with both "natural" and "organic" labelling being heavily abused in recent years by brands that are clearly neither, I can understand the distrust, but to essentially refuse to accept that the term "natural" has any helpful purpose at all is really not the answer to the underlying problem is it?  Regardless of how a product is branded, we must, as we have always said, encourage people to read and understand full ingredient lists to determine whether it is what they hoped for.  Surely that is the only real means for a customer to figure out for themselves which brands tout "natural" and are anything but natural, and which brands are really making great products from beautiful, nature-derived ingredients?

Contrary to the advice we received, I believe there is absolute relevance and value in the term "natural". In fact we at Alchemilla emphasize "natural" in our product descriptions because our skin care products are as pure, natural, organic and effective as they can be while we avoid causing harm to people and the planet.  We use as many organic and natural ingredients in as high a quantity as possible, while maintaining the quality and effectiveness our customers have come to expect from us. We don't abuse the term "organic", but we do use both terms when describing our products because we believe they fairly and honestly describe our products!

Regardless of whether there is "natural" or "organic" on the front of a label, I believe 100% that it always, ALWAYS comes down to understanding all of the ingredients in a product before making a decision on whether it meets our expectations.  I've come across products that are labelled 100% organic and sometimes certified, but when I read the ingredients, I find that the products are very unsophisticated or down-right not good for skin at all.  For example, there are Certified Organic products that consist of 100% oils and waxes, or products that contain lemon juice as a preservative...easier to Certify but for most people, not so good for the skin.

I do feel encouraged though, that after much organic labeling abuse of recent years and a realization by many people that food is food and skin care is skin care and never the twain shall meet, a Certified Organic stamp doesn't mean the product inside the bottle is anything to write home about.  Customers are truly beginning to realize that if they want organic oil or lemon juice on their skin they'll squeeze a lemon or pour from their olive oil bottle right out of their kitchen instead of looking for it in the personal care isle!  More importantly, they are realizing that their satisfaction ultimately boils down to being informed about what's actually in the product and how it performs on their skin, not just how it is branded or certified, or how "foody" it sounds.

So I would say to the manufacturer who suggested we actively de-value the term "natural" and push "certified organic" as far superior to sell more of their soaps:  Instead of creating more consumer confusion to differentiate our brands, can't we all keep the education ball rolling so as to protect not only the ethical brands that we want to keep on store shelves, but most importantly to protect customers from being mislead into purchasing something that may not necessarily be good for their skin, even though "certified organic" is on the front of the label!?

Furthermore, I would raise the point that if we were to delve deeper about this, we could talk about soapmaking itself, and the whole question of how it is even possible for soap to ever be Certified Organic.  One may be quite shocked when understanding that the actual process of getting soap into its final state does not sound all that organic at all!  In fact, when we break down the process and the ingredients needed to make soap, we become aware that soap's raw ingredient content is highly caustic (caustic soda or potassium hydroxide to be exact - most definitely not good for the planet or human in their raw form) and that the actual process of soapmaking very dangerous. 

We may also be a little astonished at how easily these facts are overlooked by the passer-by, because the finished product is branded Certified Organic and the ingredient list reads "saponified" oils as the only hint that the product was originally oil mixed with caustic soda!  Of course, there is no caustic soda in the final product, and soapmakers argue that it's irrelevant, but what I want to bring to light here is that many personal care manufacturers (soap or otherwise) would rather people blindly trust a Certified Organic stamp than really look into the facts.  What we want to do is push the need to understand the facts before deciding on a product and to bring to light that all the facts are not always available from a stamp that reads "Certified Organic".

All of that being said, we're not wanting to suggest that organic soap isn't a good thing. On the contrary, it's wonderful and I certainly prefer it over conventional soap!  The purpose of my example is to highlight a simple truth to offer a broader perspective on the Certified Organic personal care industry in general, and whether it truly represents what many want us to believe it is, or whether we need to be asking more questions.

And although it reads like we are attempting to de-value "Certified Organic" labelling, we're not.  In my opinion, Certified Organic brands are much preferable to chemical-laden brands.  However, it's all a matter of perspective.

I'm also not trying to de-value soap itself.  I am simply protesting the approach some brands take to dissuade consumers from making informed, conscious choices based on fact, ie. suggesting they blindly trust certification labels as their only means of determining a product's true value.

At Alchemilla we believe there is plenty of market share for everyone and that we should support, not demonize, any company that is producing high quality natural goods as an alternative to chemical-laden junk.  If we really care about people and the planet, why not cut out the bologne around product branding (it's an ineffective way to win ongoing consumer confidence after all) and focusing on producing and promoting safe, effective, pleasant, sustainable products that people want, and that do no harm to person or planet...AND to support others doing the same.

Why not apply the knowledge we have to ensure that we are creating the best possible products, then encourage buyers of those products to choose based on actual product ingredients, how it feels and performs, whether it's compatible with my skin, what are the brand's motivations? 

(This is not to say that we haven't had a bee in our bonnet in the past with a few so-called "natural" brands who shamelessly continue to mis-label their products in an effort to fool consumers (eg. knowingly using synthetic or "nature identical" fragrances in their products and calling them essential oils on the label, or using high percentages of alcohol or a very low-pH (both detrimental to the skin) as alternatives to an adequate preservative system, all in an effort to appear more clean and natural.  I admit, I am guilty - and I'm not sure I'll ever stop grumbling about that!)

There really are many independently owned companies, uncertified, that are producing truly beautiful and effective natural products using high quality ingredients, that deserve recognition over and above certification stamps or clever marketing.  The key for the consumer in finding such products is to not immediately right-off anything!  The key is to know what you are getting by learning a little about the company, reading the ingredients, doing the homework, and trying the product.

From one manufacturer to another I would like to say:  Let's stop putting down each other as the only way to differentiate our products and win market share!  Let's build up and expand what we know for sure is truly good, and encourage others to do their due diligence, to trust in their own research and not blindly trust a product's branding as the only means of making a decision!

*In fact, we're so not trying to de-value soap.  After all, we're about to begin selling beautifully crafted organic soaps that we found so good, we decided they would be the only products we do not make in our own lab!  We simply won't be promoting these gorgeous soaps by de-valuing the word "natural"!

This is a true story. It happened today!

Being in the natural skin care manufacturing business, I get to try a huge number of beauty products from many different companies, learning about what works well, what doesn't, what ingredients to consider and what to avoid when developing any new Alchemilla products.

One kind of product that estheticians sometimes ask us for is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid-containing exfoliator for them to use on clients. 

Although I have a strong feeling about the irritation potential and long term safety of AHA's and BHA's on the skin and probably won't be releasing such a product any time soon (our Exfoliating Face Wash Cream does a marvelous job already, even on sensitive skin) we have had the opportunity to try the odd few AHA and BHA products with a view to educating ourselves about the short-term results versus potential adverse reactions and possibly re-visiting our decision not to manufacture them. 

Which is why it so happened that a few days ago I was handed a tube of AHA-containing product and suggested I try it on my own skin.

I went ahead and applied it the first day according to the instructions.  A little tingling but nothing significant considering a slight amount of discomfort is expected with these types of products.  The second day a little more tingling but again, nothing significant.  The third day (yesterday) a lot more tingling, but it disappeared in a few minutes. 

This morning, however, I awoke to find I had broken out overnight in red acne bumps - about 8 spots on the sides of my nose and 10-15 over each of my lower cheeks - more spots at one time than I have ever had in my entire life!  Although I have sensitive skin and have had the odd hormonal 'spot' since my teenage years, I have never before had so many spots at one time on my face!  It truly gave me a sense of panic, but more importantly a deep compassion toward those who have to deal frustratingly with chronic acne on a daily basis.

Aside from the initial horror this latest skin fiasco of mine triggered, believe it or not it has actually been a truly positive experience for me. It has not only solidified my feeling about avoiding chemical exfoliants, but given me the opportunity to really put to test our anti-irritant skin care products!  (Sometimes I secretly hope for a mild skin reaction so that I can re-confirm how wonderful our anti-irritant botanical remedies are!)

I got to work immediately on restoring my skin to its original creamy smoothness, not thinking for a moment that this would clear up any sooner than a few days at least!  I immediately cleansed my face with Alchemilla Calming Cleansing Milk (to get rid of any residual AHA product that might continue to irritate), rinsed off then gently blotted my skin with a clean towel and applied about 10 drops of Calming Lotion to the irritated areas and rubbed that in gently until it was almost undetectable.  Finally, I applied the usual amount of Rosebay Willowherb Cream (my daily moisturizer) to my entire face.

It has been about 7 hours since I did this and my skin has shown a remarkable recovery - about 80% better than it was this morning. Our skin care products were created with my own skin in mind because of a natural tendency of my skin to react to many stimulants - eg. from skin products, the garden, inside the home, even plastic bags - so I have complete faith in our products to do what they say they will do, but this incredibly quick response is beyond what I could have hoped for even from our incredibly effective formulations!

Along with Calming Salve, the above Alchemilla products are truly excellent botanical-based organic products for sensitive skin and highly effective natural remedies for calming irritation reactions. If you have sensitive skin or skin that has a tendency to react to certain chemicals, it is worth having them on hand.

I am relieved that my skin is almost back to normal so quickly. Some people are not so lucky and have to deal with these problems over a longer period of time (I remember a school friend who for many months had to apply all kinds of steroid creams to get her reactive skin under control after contact with some common cleaning chemicals).  For me this has certainly created a stronger conviction about steering clear of AHA products, especially if one has sensitive skin that tends to break out in response to allergens the way mine does.  I just don't think it's worth it when there are much gentler, effective alternatives available, like the organic skin care products made by us at Alchemilla.

Have you ever walked down the detergent aisle of a grocery store and held your breathe because of an instinctive feeling that perhaps all of these aromas bombarding your senses might not be good for you?

Whether we realize it or not, our bodies are being constantly invaded by synthetic aromatic chemicals. A simple walk down a grocery store "cleaners" aisle, plugging in a home "air-freshener", or sniffing our way through the department store fragrance department exposes us to literally thousands of aromatic chemicals that are at best affecting our ability to appreciate real, more subtle scents that come from true nature or at worst poisoning our bodies - in fact almost all of the chemicals found in fragrance oils are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum, and include chemicals that are capable of causing birth defects, cancer, allergies such as asthma or central nervous system issues.

A simple example of how synthetic perfumes have conditioned our senses for the worst, is to perhaps examine one's interpretation of what a Rose fragrance smells like.  This is one of the most popular of all scents, but how many of us can say for sure that we know what a REAL Rose oil smells like?

What often comes as a surprise, and sometimes disappointment to the consumer, is that a whiff of pure, natural Rose oil (the kind that comes from real Rose petals) is not equal to the experience of sinking one's nose into that heavenly rose garden and breathing in deeply! 

Adding pure rose essential oil to a cosmetic product is not going to produce that result at all. As a result, the fragrance industry has for decades flooded the market with various synthetically created interpretations of Rose for the purpose of meeting the consumer's desired sensory experience.  The draw-backs of this are outlined above - 1) more exposure to toxic chemicals and; 2) most people do not know what real Rose perfume actually smells like, nor can they appreciate it when the opportunity to experience it arises. Often, when given the opportunity to smell true Rose oil, some will go so far as to say "that's not rose!"

Whether intentional or not, our bodies are being invaded by toxic aromatic chemicals. Just a walk down a grocery store detergent aisle, plugging in a home fragrancer, or sniffing our way through a department store fragrance department, is exposing us to literally thousands of synthetic aromatic chemicals that are conditioning our senses into a confused understanding of what real things actually smell like and ultimately affecting our ability to appreciate the subtle scents that come from nature.

Although synthetic fragrances may often smell pleasant, they are usually comprised of a toxic chemical cocktail and, at best, do nothing to lift our consciousness or offer the true healing potential of pure essential plant oils.

At Alchemilla we offer 100% pure, undiluted, organically grown essential oils and blends as our way of re-introducing Mother Nature's authentic gift of true aroma to all. Eliminating synthetic fragrances from our homes and our beauty cabinets, and opting for an authentically natural alternative, means we are not only creating a healthier atmosphere for our families, but giving ourselves the opportunity to benefit from the many therapeutic properties of pure, natural essential oils.

If you’ve had an opportunity to try our new ‘Skin Therapy’ Calming Salve youwill no doubt have found that, as with all Alchemilla products, this wonderfulherbal remedy does what it says it will do – soothe minor wounds and irritation,as well as address itchiness and irritation after gardening and minor insectbites.

With its concentration of organic anti-irritant botanicals, Calming Salve is a wonderful gift for moms, campers, hikers, gardeners, etc.  Italso makes a wonderful fragrance-free, chemical-free moisturizer for sensitiveskin, or skin that temporarily needs extra gentle daily care.

Calming Salve was designed with me, personally, in mind!  I havehighly sensitive skin that reacts to bites and scratches like nothing else.  Ioften find myself in the Alchemilla herb garden, so I frequently experience theperils of prickly comfrey, rose thorns and oh, those stinging nettles!  I alsohave an occasional skin reaction when I handle cats, and a recent adoption oftwo abandoned kittens has served to re-emphasize that little challenge!  I’vetried herbal salves before (preferring not to reach for pharmaceuticals if I canhelp it) but so far have found nothing that works as quickly and effectively asour Calming Salve.  

Each soothing herb was carefully selected for this synergistic blend and itwas decided early in Calming Salve’s development that if this product doesn’tcreate anything less than a miracle on my own skin, we wouldn’t sell it toanyone else!  But it has truly lived up to its name. In fact, I callthis wonderful combination of soothing herbs my “little miracle-in-a-jar”and keep several around the house to quickly and effectively calm my skin aftergardening…or playing with those naughty kittens!  Any time I get a persistentitch or minor rash, or when one of my children complains of a scratch or insectbite, I reach for this salve and it works every time.

Our special price of $8.00 means right now is agreat time to try ‘Skin Therapy’ Calming Salve … stock up early for thoseChristmas stocking stuffers!

In the warmer, balmier months of spring and summer, many of us can get through the day with a little light moisturizer on our skin.  Or, for those who are really lucky, a light serum and perhaps a spritz of hydrating floral water every so often.  However, those of us with dry skin conditions usually need something more no matter what the climate.

Dryness is a very common skin condition, and even more so in the colder months of the year.  In fact, individuals who normally have perfect, trouble-free skin for most of the year can often suffer from dry skin conditions as soon as the outside temperature begins to drop.  

Why is this so?  Dry skin occurs more in the colder months because, generally, the cold air outside combined with hot air inside creates a low relative humidity.  This low humidity typically causes the skin to lose moisture. 

Other common causes of dry skin include:

• Bathing or showering too frequently;
• Using harsh soaps;
• Deficiency of vitamins (specifically A and/or D);
• Illness;
• Overexposure to sunlight;
• Hormonal changes/imbalance;
• Some medications.

Anyone with a dry skin condition may be tempted to immediately slather on an extra-rich moisturizing cream to immediately relieve that dry, taut feeling and 'disappear' those dehydrated fine lines.  Seems logical.  Certainly, extra-rich facial products can provide an instant sense of relief and the feeling that somehow we are winning the battle against our moisture-depleted skin.  Unfortunately however, richer is not always better, especially if you don't want to create a dependence cycle with your skin care products, and you do want your skin to achieve a natural balance. 

Ideally, when caring for a dry skin condition, one should use organic skin care products that nourish adequately enough to minimize trans-epidermal water loss, yet do not over-nourish with heavy oils and waxes, which only serve to clog the pores and not encourage the skin to respond, by itself, to environmental changes. 

It is important to understand that our body has the innate ability to maintain homeostasis (equilibrium) by itself, and that supporting this process with biologically compatible, plant-based skin care products, rather than inhibiting it with products that over-nourish or stress our skin more, can do much to promote inner resilience and a complexion that radiates health and vitality, regardless of external factors.

Dry Skin Care Products to Try...

Perfect for colder months, Alchemilla's Calendula Cream and Rosebay Willowherb Cream will help keep skin adequately moisturized and protected while not over-nourishing and inhibiting skin's inner balance.  These organic facial moisturizers contain powerful plant-derived emollients that nourish and protect from trans-epidermal water loss, and natural humectants to draw water from the atmosphere and hold it on the skin.  They also contain organic botanical extracts to address specific needs - Calendula Cream can address dry skin that tends to peel or chafe and Rosebay Willowherb Cream can address issues of sensitive and reactive skin. 

When aging from environmental pollution is a concern, Alchemilla's Rehydrating Day Care Cream contains a potent natural antioxidant complex to address free radical damage, and the right balance of emollients and a natural humectant to moisturize and hydrate without over-nourishing.

In the evening, or if your skin needs that little bit of extra moisture during the day than most day creams provide, a Rehydrating Night Balm is perfectly formulated with a unique blend of powerful organic moisturizing ingredients and regenerative herbal extracts to nourish, nurture and enhance skin's natural restorative processes during rest time.

A humidifier at one's office desk or in the bedroom at night can generate a good amount of moisture in the otherwise dry air.  If a humidier isn't a practical solution, an Aromatic Floral Water (with in-built humectant) can be spritzed directly onto the skin and into the immediate environment throughout the day.  In combination with a humectant-containing facial moisturizer, this addition of moisture to the air will do wonders to keep those skin cells plumped up full of moisture. 

Surprisingly, also important for dry skin care is regular exfoliation with a gentle product to de-flake, loosen and remove epithelial build-up to prevent clogging of pores and improve absorption of your moisturizer.  We suggest a mechanical (physical), rather than chemical (AHA, BHA), exfoliation treatment that is suitable for dry, and often sensitive, skin types.  Try Alchemilla's Exfoliating Face Wash Cream.  This incredibly gentle organic facial exfoliant's is highly concentrated in tiny smooth beads of jojoba and can be used on even the most sensitive skin to instantly uncover a smooth, soft, youthful glow without the risk of irritation that comes with a chemical exfoliant.

A simple shift in our understanding of what dry skin really needs can make all the difference when we are trying to create for ourselves a better chance at minimizing ongoing skin problems and achieving the radiant, balanced complexion we've always wished for.

Aromatherapy has been a part of my life for over 20 years now, and although it has, for the most part, been an incredibly joyful and rewarding experience, during my 'apprenticeship' days or, better put, the early days when I didn't really believe in the ability of essential oils to do anything much more than smell nice (or that they were potent alternative medicine tools to be used very sparingly) I did get myself into trouble more than one time.  I hope, that by reading this, anyone who is inexperienced, or doubts the power of essential oils, will think twice before adopting a nonchalant attitude toward them!

My first story takes me back to a time when I was at work in my office job and happened to be suffering from menstrual cramps.  I had decided, rather than reach for a pain-killer, I would get 'all-natural-like' and give Clary Sage a go.  So, right there at my office desk, I went ahead and opened the pure, undiluted bottle of Clary Sage essential oil and poured (yes, 'poured') a 'little' into my hands.  I then quickly rubbed my hands together and spread the oil over my abdomen.  After that, while I was in the process of closing the bottle, I happened to spill a little more of the oil over my hands.  I didn't panic.  I just didn't like the ridiculously strong aroma which had taken over my hands, body, entire office cubicle and all other cubicles within a 50 foot range (I wasn't popular at work that morning).

I went ahead and rubbed the excess oil off with a tissue, then carried on typing.  Within about 5 minutes, however I started to feel kind of light-headed, and a little nauseous.  It puzzled me greatly at first.  I stopped typing, and as the smell completely engulfed me, I started thinking: "Maybe this essential oil stuff really works?", and: "Oh no, if it does, maybe I got too much on myself?", and "Oh no, maybe I might die?"  After 5 minutes of torturing myself, I ended up calling a sweet colleague from the 39th floor (who I knew was a trained aromatherapist) and finished up in sick bay with her cleaning the excess essential oil from my hands using olive oil and tissues, assuring me I'd be fine, lecturing me on the potency of the oils, while rubbing my feet to keep me calm, and keeping a close watch while the effects of the Clary Sage 'over-dose' wore off!  Thank goodness I had her to keep me sane that day!  Within an hour or so I was feeling much better and able to carry on with work as though nothing had ever happened...

But that was my first lesson in aromatherapy safety:  Understand the essential oil you are using.  Always keep the orifice reducer in place! Do not use essential oils undiluted on the skin*. Never doubt the power of aromatherapy to greatly affect the body and mind!  *A small number of essential oils may be used undiluted, sparingly, only if indicated by the supplier or a qualified aromatherapist.

A year or so later I learned my next lesson.  I was experimenting with a bath oil recipe in my kitchen. While messing about with this oil and that, I managed to get a drop of cinnamon essential oil on my fingers.  I quickly wiped it off with a tissue and continued to work, but sometime down the line I rubbed the edge of my mouth with that same hand and, ouch!  That burned for quite a few minutes.  The same thing happened another time with Peppermint at the corner of my eye.  My second lesson:  Some essential oils are very irritating. And again, understand the essential oil you are using.

Now, you would think that with my hair-raising Clary Sage experience, I would have learned about the power of essential oils by now. However, it appears I needed yet another lesson to really drum into my head once and for that essential oils are powerful!  This next experience was what sealed the coffin for me when it came to "care and respect for essential oils" and "not embarrassing yourself with aromatherapy"!:

One evening, when I was feeling all zen after meditating and being at home peacefully alone, I decided I would go one step further and do a frankincense foot rub on myself.  I'd heard Frankincense was supposed to help with insomnia and I had learned at Natural Medicine College that a foot rub is one of the fastest ways to get an aromatherapy oil into the blood stream.  I wanted to try for a really good night's sleep, so I placed about 10 drops of Frankincense essential oil into a tablespoon of carrier oil. At least by then I knew that applying it undiluted would be a bad idea, right?. So I went ahead and rubbed it into my feet (according to my Naturopathy teacher, the soles of the feet allow the most efficient absorption of essential oils into the blood stream).  I was feeling so nourished and loved, and excited at the prospect of a deep restful slumber.  Boy, did I get more than I expected...

After I was done, I got myself all cozy in bed and waited for the deep relaxation and tranquility to take hold.  What took hold was hardly relaxing, or tranquil.  In fact, after about 10 minutes, I started hallucinating.  Every time I closed my eyes the bed felt as though it was spinning and I kept envisioning all kinds of weird things behind my eyelids.   I would sit up, eyes wide open, then lay back down and close them again.  But the same thing kept happening every time I tried to relax.  It got so much so, that I began to panic (my trade-mark response to many things in life). The panic then made me short of breath and before long I was into a full-blown anxiety attack.  I rushed into the shower with olive oil in hand, and rubbed a whole lot of it furiously into my feet, washing it off with soap and warm water, then repeating the process over and over again, hoping it would be a miracle cure for my 'condition'.  It didn't seem to work (or, at least, my panic attack told me I was getting worse). 

So, being in a state of panic (which, in case you've never had a panic attack, also causes an inability to think straight and makes one rather delusional about the true danger of the situation), I found myself with no alternative but to contact the Poisons Control Center.  Yes, that's right, the Poisons Control Center.  I must have figured it would be less bad than going to the ER. 

I was relieved to have gotten straight through to an information officer, who allowed me to fully explain to her what I had done.  After I was finished explaining the situation, there was a very long, stunned silence at the other end of the phone.  Finally, she repeated slowly back to me "Frankincense oil?...on your feet?  Ma'am, this is the Poisons Control Center!".

At that moment it was as though that Poisons Control lady was standing right next to me and had slapped my face and told me to snap out of it, because lo and behold, that's exactly what happened.  Before it got ugly (and not from my end of the line) I sheepishly (and quickly) ended the phone call and went back to bed.  The hallucinations continued for a little while, but I did fall asleep and, actually, I slept really well that night, considering!

Lessons learned (again):  Understand the essential oil you are using.  Use essential oils sparingly (sometimes 1 drop really is enough!).  Never doubt the power of aromatherapy to greatly affect the body and mind!

Okay, so this concludes my little essay on essential oil safety.  It is not meant to frighten anyone away from aromatherapy.  On the contrary, aromatherapy is a wonderful alternative healing tool that also has extremely pleasurable sensory benefits for anyone interested in trying it, even if it is to simply fragrance a room in a non-toxic fashion.

And, although I've imparted my own silly humor into the equation, my aim is to raise awareness amongst readers who may not yet fully understand or believe in the power of essential oils.  It is also by no means a comprehensive list of what you need to know about using them.  More detailed information on the subject can be found at our website: essential oil safety.

A final note about the Poisons Control Center: They're very busy people and I did feel like a complete idiot at the time, however I don't want to discourage anyone from calling them if ever in any doubt about one's health and safety.

Hmm, that reminds me of another time when I decided to call them:  This one time, I was making soap in my kitchen, and I had to use this really caustic stuff called lye, and a little got on my pinky finger...and.......

As Alchemilla customers know, we are a natural skin care manufacturer with a huge social/environmental/health conscience combined with the fundamental goal of creating truly exquisite, shelf-safe, health-safe, toxin-free products that do what they say they will do.  We also endeavor to educate readers of our blog and visitors to our website as much as possible about cosmetics ingredients, especially those ingredients we use in Alchemilla products, and ultimately promote a common sense approach to safe skin care.

For every piece of factual, scientific based data available however, there seems to be at least 10 ‘experts’ who in their blogs claim toxicity or harmfulness of every ingredient natural skin care manufacturers add to their products to ensure they are safe as well as effective.  Popular spotlighted ingredients are the preservatives, which are paramount to ensuring one can safely store a product on the shelf for a reasonable period of time without fear of microbial contamination. We’ve even found a blog that deliberately quotes an FDA’s warning out of context in order to grow a culture of fear around phenoxyethanol, a popular preservative in natural skin care products.

With the huge and seemingly growing amount of unsubstantiated information found online, it was refreshing for us recently then, to have come upon a website (personalcaretruth.com) developed by a group of individuals who have been researching personal care ingredients for decades.  The group is dedicated to delivering actual facts about cosmetics ingredients, and to challenge the scare tactics of fear mongerers who it appears would have consumers believe that almost anything that isn’t a plant is harmful to your health.  With real scientific data, the goal of personalcaretruth.com is to clear up many misconceptions about ingredients, particularly in respect to how they are used (topically) and how they are found within the context of a finished product (ie. often in tiny proportions).

Although we have regularly endorsed excellent resources for ingredient safety information and refer to these often in our own research, we have had to contend with a lot of the data being from assessments made of ingredients at 100% concentration, or from a consideration that an ingredient may or may not have been possibly contaminated with something else.  In addition, almost every cosmetic ingredient MSDS (material safety data sheet) has warnings which can sometimes seem alarming.  MSDS information is for a 100% concentration of the ingredient, and even simple Sunflower or Hazelnut Oils, in accordance with their respective MSDS’s, require safety goggles and have specific First Aid measures in case they get into contact with the skin!

Additionally, within the context of a skin care product, many ingredients that are approved for use but aren’t ‘natural’ in the strictest sense, or have potential for irritation at a high percentage, are often found in extremely minute proportions. For example citric acid, an important pH buffer, or potassium sorbate, a food grade preservative, are sometimes used in Alchemilla products, but usually at less than .1%).  At such a tiny concentration, even ingredients considered irritating have little potential of doing harm to an end use.

It would be an understatement, then, to announce how very pleased we were to finally come across personalcaretruth.com, whose focus is on providing scientifically backed information about personal care ingredients within the context of the products in which they are found.

One might argue that the personalcaretruth.com group is not unbiased because one or two of their founders have their own skin care manufacturing business.  A fair charge, but would it not also be fair then to question who is behind many of the alarmist ingredient toxicity claims on the other side of the fence?  Are they unbiased?

A quick online search will find many of the claims and warnings are from brand manufacturers themselves, or even consumer advocate organizations (within which have founding members with their own brand of personal care products - a conflict of interest to say the least). 

Personalcaretruth.com is potentially the first of many online equalizers to come, and a welcome one at that.  It is, after all, becoming increasingly confusing for the conscientious consumer to figure out what is and isn’t safe to put on their bodies, and more often than not they tend to believe the first thing they read about an ingredient (which on the internet is often accompanied by no scientific backing).

In the end, common sense will prevail.  If one really wants to get a level-headed answer on the question of cosmetics ingredient safety, it boils down to ensuring that whatever data one bases a conclusion upon, it should come from the most unbiased source possible, with proper scientific resources to adequately study the ingredient as it is meant to be used within the context of a product (topically (ie. externally), often in tiny concentrations).  As much as we’re not happy with the FDA’s inability to fully regulate the personal care industry and what this has meant for the unaware consumer, it is one of the most reliable sources available for exact data. Another is the cosmetics ingredient review board and, although there has been argument that this group is not completely unbiased, they have undertaken a lot of research and re-research of the ingredients for which they report and provide an excellent guideline.

Ingredient alarmism seems to have ‘gone viral’ and I often ask myself “why has this happened?”  Certainly, with the information now available to us, it makes perfect sense that we cannot afford NOT to check ingredient lists and do our own research. 

When I personally come across alarming yet unsubstantiated claims however, I do often question (as I hope most do) what’s in it for the ingredient alarmist?  I remind myself that any individual or company can hide behind a blog, and often do.  And it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that unsubstantiated ingredient toxicity claims can keep independent businesses like ours busy defending our formulations, as well as trying to figure out how to create a shelf-safe product without the use of an adequate preservative, and checking and re-checking their research, that we finish up with very little time to do what they originally intended – create safe, natural, effective beauty products that have real, authentic results! 

Hmm, unsubstantiated ingredient alarmism sounds like a good strategy for gaining and maintaining a competitive edge in the natural product market, however Alchemilla customers can be assured that we won't be creating a market based on that!

The ability to share information through the internet as well as innovative research in the field of natural medicine and health products has led to a greater demand for skin care that is composed of organic ingredients. Educated consumers no longer want products that go in or on their bodies to include sulfates, dyes, synthetic fragrances, or other destructive components.

Along with this increased interest in organic and botanical based skin care, which is a positive development, has come the need for more intense cultivation of the plants that make such products possible. As a result, increased usage of herbal products across the globe, as well as habitat destruction due to harvesting of the herbs or unrelated man-made development, is causing a shortage of some important medicinal plant resources.

This problematic side effect is an issue that must be addressed, both for the sustainability of many plant species and so that consumers can continue to receive these beneficial products. One important organization that is working to protect the plant life that is essential to natural skin care products is United Plant Savers.

15 years ago United Plant Savers adopted the mission to protect at-risk native medicinal plants of the United States and Canada and their native habitats. United Plant Savers offers outreach in the form of research, education, and protection efforts that all serve the purpose of providing an abundant renewable supply of medicinal plants.

United Plant Savers works to educate consumers in a variety of different ways. One of the most important contributions that UpS has made is an extensive analysis of wild medicinal plants and their current use. The research has resulted in a list of plants that are considered to be most at-risk and a secondary list that contains plants which should be watched for possible problems. These lists were created using empirical reports and scientific studies, and this work continues today.

UpS has developed an At-Risk Assessment Tool, available on their website, through which people can enter detailed information about a particular herb species and have the plant assessed for its current risk of extinction. This ongoing research ensures that people who want to join in the effort to protect medicinal herbs are given the most current information.

In addition to the work that UpS does to monitor the various wild plants and record their level of security in the environment, the organization also engages in extensive outreach through several venues. UpS provides grants to communities that are committed to caring for the land on which wild plants are growing and to educating others about the importance of this preservation. They have land consultants who will visit residential or commercial property and help the owners restore the natural ecosystem that previously existed or transform the land into a new approach towards sustaining wildlife. Another way that UpS influences communities is through the workshops they offer across the country to teach people about how to plant with the future in mind. And, for those who are already making contributions towards the efforts of stewardship, UpS presents an annual Medicinal Plant Conservation Award.

One of the missions of Alchemilla is to promote education among our clients concerning the plants that we use in our line of organic and natural skin care products. Following the example set by United Plant Savers, we take seriously our responsibility to be good stewards of the earth. We truly value the herbs and other plant life that we believe offer the best way to care for your skin. Our customers should be able to buy our products not only with an appreciation for the positive effects on their appearance, but also with an understanding of why protecting the herbs we use is so important to our future.

When examining the ingredients that Alchemilla Ultra-Pure Skincare uses in the development of its organic products, customers may notice that we include a few plants that are listed as at-risk species by United Plant Savers. Note that we do not use these plants in any way that is detrimental to their survival as a species. In fact, the Echinacea used in our formulations is grown by us on our own farm in Oregon. We are also beginning cultivation of the Eyebright plant on our land and have discontinued our use of American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius), which is at-risk, and switched to Siberian ginseng species (Eleutherococcus senticosus) with very similar activity to the former but from a different, sustainable plant family. We do not harvest any at-risk or to-watch species from the wild nor do we ask suppliers to do so. Any new herbs that we decide to use and that are currently considered to be endangered to any degree will be grown by Alchemilla on our farm.

As a company that places high importance on an organic and natural approach to health and beauty, we at Alchemilla are encouraged by the ever-growing market for products created from the amazing plant life that surrounds us. Every day, more people are learning about the medicinal and clinical benefits of herbs. With this wonderful awareness and popularity comes the danger that demand will outpace the cultivation of many species. In the rush to grow and consume plants, no matter how honorable the intention, we run the danger of losing these plants altogether. We are grateful for the efforts of United Plant Savers to educate the public about the fragile ecosystem that we all share. The work of United Plant Savers remind all of us to take proactive steps to protect the plants whose medicinal benefits we have only begun to understand!

"Smell is a potent wizard that transports us across thousands of miles and all the years we have lived.  The odors of fruits waft me to my southern home, to my childhood frolics in the orange orchard.  Other odors, instantaneous and fleeting, cause my heart to dilate joyously or contract with remembered grief.  Even as I think of smells, my nose is full of scents that start to awake sweet memories of summers gone and ripening fields far away."  Helen Keller

The Science of Aromatherapy

Aromatherapy is an alternative healing modality that focuses on the treatment of imbalance in the body mind and/or spirit using aromatic plant essential oils.  It is a unique offering to humans from plants, and a vital link with the riches of the natural world.

Essential oils contain pheromones, hormones, antibiotics and cell regenerating agents that nourish, energize and protect the plant and play an important role in strengthening the plant's immunity toward disease by killing bacteria, warding off insect pests and neutralizing viruses. 

By extracting precious essential oils from plants we can harness their individual healing qualities and use them to support the health and happiness of our body and mind.

Essential oils work both physically through the penetration of the skin and psychologically when introduced via vaporization or direct inhalation. Our sense of smell is a highly sensitive and subtle mode of perception that acts mainly on a subconscious level. Olfactory nerves, which begin in the nostrils, are the gateway that leads directly to the part of our brain responsible for memory and emotions (the limbic system).

All aroma molecules affect a variety of body functions, such as our nervous system, hormones, body temperature, stress reaction and sexual arousal, as well as conscious thought and reaction. A naturally scented product is armed with nature’s healers (essential oils) and can do plenty to ensure these vital bodily processes are stimulated in a most natural and gentle manner.

Top, Middle and Base Notes

An essential oil is usually rated for its volatility, and categorized by perfumers as either a Top, Middle or Base note.  Top notes tend to vaporize quickly and need the utmost care in storage due to their volatility.  In comparison, Base notes evaporate slowly and linger in the air and on the skin the longest. 

In an aromatherapy blend or natural perfume, a most balanced and lasting oil combination is one that includes all three notes - a Top, Middle and Base. 

Natural versus Synthetic

Pure, natural essential oils are highly concentrated extracts from the botanical world and are obtained through steam distillation or some form of expression (cold pressed or otherwise). Although they are oils, they are not oily or greasy.

Synthetic, or imitation fragrant oils are aromatic compounds that have been artificially manufactured in a laboratory using various, and often many, chemicals. These products usually carry exotic plant names yet usually contain no plant material at all.  For example, there is no such thing as a natural frangipani or strawberry oil.  While synthetic fragrances may smell pleasant, they have no therapeutic value as they completely lack the undiluted active ingredients found in plants.  Although they are often marketed as room fragrances, it is questionable as to whether they should be used as such, given the toxic nature of many of the ingredients found in them.

>> More information on Aromatherapy and Essential Oils

>> Organic Aromatherapy and Essential Oil Products

Alchemilla's Rosebay Willowherb Cream is a potent soothing, organic facial moisturizer that well deserves its top seller position in our natural skin care line.

Made with Rosebay Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract that is grown on our own organic farm, this potent herbal topical remedy, has a soothing, calming effect on irritated skin, making it a wonderful sensitive skin facial moisturizer and excellent for minor bites and irritations.  

Rosebay Willowherb, or Epilobium angustifolium, extract not only has powerful anti-irritant properties, scientific studies are showing that topical anti-irritants can stimulate the synthesis of new collagen and elastin (proteins which give skin its elasticity), giving it natural anti-aging properties too!   What's more, studies on Epilobium angustifolium are showing promising anti-acne actions.

Although there is relatively little information available about Epilobium angustifolium when compared to more traditional plant medicines such as Calendula, and while this is possibly due to its commonly known status as a 'weed'!, the incredibly effective anti-irritant properties of this plant make it sometimes known as "Nature's Alternative to Hydrocortisone".

Indeed, we at Alchemilla have had great success in our own personal use and that of friends, family, colleagues and customers.  One Alchemilla esthetician used the cream on her hormonal acne in the evening and reported that it had all but vanished by the next morning and some Alchemilla customers, including yours truly, keep this facial moisturizer as a constant in their beauty cabinet.

As this delightful plant grows, we view it's long, narrow leaves and bright purple flowers atop tall branches not as a weed, but as a powerful and perhaps under-valued natural healer.  And although many a gardener might be tempted to pull this plant out as soon as it rises up from the soil, we only find ourselves urging it on with much enthusiasm!

Find out more and/or buy Rosebay Willowherb Cream >